Bukit Bintang
Bukit Bintang
by Manjeet Dhillon
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sarongtrails
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Culinary Postcard: Bukit Bintang
Malaysia’s food culture mirrors it’s multicultural fabric, where Malay, Chinese, Indian, and indigenous influences converge on every plate. Join me in exploring the flavours and narratives that define Kuala Lumpur as a gastronomic melting pot.
While Bukit Bintang is often associated with “Jalan Alor”, this list is a locals insider guide, semi off the beaten path, to explore the surrounding area. Jalan Alor will serve as a reference point, but the adventure will take you beyond its bustling strip.
Click on the map below to open a link to Google Maps.
Hutong Food Court
Nestled within the basement level of Lot 10 mall, Hutong food court combines the charm of top KL hawker food with the comfort of air conditioning. The food hall shares space with a Japanese food court where you can sample Japanese whisky and craft beer before your meal.
My personal favourite at Hutong, is the “dug egg char kway teow.” This dish features flat rice noodles that are stir-fried over high heat in a wok. The noodles are often cooked with a combination of ingredients that give the dish its unique character. These ingredients include:
- Large prawns, a must have or this dish is incomplete!
- Sweet and smoky dried Chinese sausage, Lap Cheong, adds a hint of sweetness.
- Duck eggs bring both texture and creaminess.
- Fresh bean sprouts provide a refreshing crunch.
- Chopped chives offer a mild onion flavour and freshness.
- Some versions include indulgent crispy fried pork lard for a satisfying crunch.
- A combination of soy sauce, chilli paste, and seasonings infuse the noodles.
The result is flavours and textures: savoury, slightly sweet, smoky, and sometimes spicy (if you ask). Go gentle with the chilli paste served on the side!
Nasi Lemak Jalan Alor
The quintessential dish in KL’s culinary culture, traditionally a breakfast staple but relished at any time of the day. Essential to the nasi lemak is a plate of rice (cooked in coconut milk and sometimes pandan juice), accompanied by sambal ikan bilis (anchovies in chilli paste), toasted peanuts, hard-boiled egg, and cucumber slices. Beyond these essentials, side servings include chicken or beef rendang, fried chicken or spicy squid in chilli paste (sambal sotong).
At this morning-only stall in Bukit Bintang, side servings with your nasi lemak include chicken or beef rendang, sambal sotong (spicy squid), crispy paru (fried cow’s lungs), fried chicken, and begedil (fried potato patties).
To complete your nasi lemak, there’s their special in-house sambal (chilli paste) blend known as “sambal kahwin” (kahwin means marriage, hinting at the blend of their three different sambals with your rice).
You have the choice to take your meal to go or sit curb-side at their tables and enjoy your food just like the locals do, especially during the morning rush of office workers grabbing a quick, flavourful local breakfast.
Nasi Kahwin Hari Hari
A back lane stall offering a taste of Malay wedding feast every day. Staple dish here is Nasi Hujan Panas (rainbow ghee-butter rice), a typical rice dish served during a Malay wedding. Alongside your plate of rice, choose from several sides: ayam rose terangkat (slow-cooked chicken in a spicy tomato-chilli sauce), daging masak hitam (spiced beef in dark soy sauce), and ayam madu dua (sweet pineapple curry chicken). The flavorful rice, infused with ghee (clarified butter), aromatic spices and grains of coloured rice, complements the dishes perfectly. Food here is reminiscent of northern-style Malay cuisine, and each meal is accompanied by a refreshing salad of pineapple, cucumber, finely sliced chilli and onions tossed in a lime vinegar dressing.
You can choose to eat their restaurant (Jalan Beremi) or roadside stall (Lorong Berangan), both located close to each other.
Crossroads of Lorong Ceylon and Jalan Mesui
A trio of stalls with authentic local food in the heart of Bukit Bintang, amidst the bustling office lunch crowd. There are three stalls:
Fruit Stall: Go here for a packet of sliced mango, and drizzle with sour plum powder.
Indian Food Stall: You’re served a plate of rice, and from there, you can craft your feast by selecting from a multitude of curries and vegetable side dishes. Simply help yourself to your chosen portions, find a table, sit down, and enjoy your meal.
Fatima Corner (Malay food stall): Complete with the enticing aroma of grilled fish (ikan bakar) wafting through the air, you can opt for a satisfying combination of rice, tempeh, and your choice of mains, be it the spicy tamarind curry-infused stingray (ikan asam pedas), the aromatic chicken in turmeric coconut curry (ayam masak lemak), or the classic rendang. Don’t forget to add a serving of local herbs (ulam) to your plate. To quench your thirst, ask for a refreshing sirap limau ais, which is rose-flavoured water with a hint of lime.
Chinatown Cendol
An ice dessert common in Malaysia and throughout Southeast Asia. Cendols flavour profile is based on the holy trinity of Southeast Asian dessert ingredients – coconut, pandan and palm sugar.
In a bowlful of shaved iced are: vibrant green jelly strands made from rice flour and pandan leaf extract, bathing in creamy coconut milk for a contrast. To enhance its sweetness, it’s generously drizzled with gula melaka (brown sugar) syrup, known for its complex caramel-like flavour. For additional layers of texture and flavour, you can include red beans, glutinous rice, or sweet corn.
Wong Ah Wah (Mickey Mouse signboard)
A perennial favourite among both locals and travelers, dining here is best enjoyed in a group. Begin with a round of barbecue chicken wings and salted egg fried squid. For sharing, explore dishes like Chinese-style butter chicken, kam heong prawns, a stir-fried vegetable such as kai lan in oyster sauce, along with a plate of fried rice or Singapore mee hoon.
Quench your thirst with the flavourful limau asam boi, a lime juice with a hint of salt from dried plum, which is both refreshing and worth a try.
Keep in mind that the staff might encourage you to order larger portions of everything, especially if you’re a tourist. Simply request small or medium portions for sharing, leaving room to explore as you stroll along Jalan Alor. Additionally, check the day’s seafood prices, as they are typically not listed on the menu and are subject to market rates.
Aliff Satay, Jalan Alor
A serving of satay comprises expertly charred meat pieces, with the true star being the peanut sauce. It’s not just any sauce; it’s thick, studded with diced nuts, and carries a subtle spiciness that tempts you to keep dipping your satay in.
Plot twist: Satay sauce has a bolognese-like texture, grab a takeaway packet of peanut sauce, toss it with pasta, add baked tempeh and voila there’s your meal! And while you’re there, head to Restoran Wong Ah Wah for a “limau asam boi” drink to go. A third quenching lime juice with preserved sour plum. Trust me on this one, you’ll be hooked.
Wan Tan Mee at Toong Kwoon Chye
this corner shop has been around since 1919 and is known for its old-fashioned handmade wan tan mee.
Wan tan mee is a simple dish of egg noodles in a black sauce seasoning, choy sum (vegetable), char siew (BBQ pork) and a bowl of wonton soup on the side.
You can also have Curry Chicken Mee, Hakka Pork Belly Mee, Oyster Sauce Chicken Wing Mee, Chicken Feet Mee, Mushroom Chicken Feet Mee, Mushroom Mee or the ABC Mee.
Blue Boy Vegetarian Food Court
Located a bit off the usual path, you’ll stumble upon Blue Boy Mansion, a block of flats dating back to the 90s, with a ground floor food court. Here you’ll find vegetarian food, from nasi lemak, char kuey teow, mee jawa, yong tau foo, prawn mee, lam mee, curry laksa, and even assam laksa.
Restoran Muar
A stalwart of Tengkat Tong Shin for over a decade and back to basic local food. There’s crispy fried eggs, a satisfying combination of eggs, soy sauce, and crispy edges. The standout dish is assam fish, featuring a moist and tender snapper in assam pedas (spicy tamarind) gravy. Other recommended dishes include the mantis prawns with dried chillies, creamy butter kai lan (chinese brocolli)), and the ‘Secret Cendol’ dessert.
YW Coffee Shop
A local breakfast haunt, tucked away in a corner lot. I like their fish ball noodles; unlike the usual, this version packs an authentic flavour. It’s generously loaded with homemade fish balls, fish cake slices, fish dumplings, bean sprouts, and crispy fried pork lard.