Navigating Kuala Lumpur’s culinary culture is like embarking on an artful adventure for your taste buds. While an exhaustive list of every stall and eatery in Chinatown would require more scrolls than an ancient manuscript, I’ve spared you the endless reading. Instead, I’ve charted a course on Google Maps and sprinkled some insider tips here to steer you clear of the pitfalls and lead you to curious shops.

The map also features eateries, from sidewalk stalls to restaurants across the Chinatown boundaries. I’ve also included a taste of authentic dishes by KL’s diverse migrant community. It’s a celebration of not just ingredients but also the heartwarming connection we share through our love for food.

Keep an eye out for the “rusty market” (pasar karat), which may disappear faster than a magician’s rabbit. As day turns to night, the nocturnal food hawkers emerge, and all-day eateries stand ready to satisfy every craving. Whether you’re a breakfast enthusiast, a nocturnal nibbler, or an all-day feaster, KL has you covered.

I’ve poured my heart into curating this guide, and I hope you savor it as much as I did creating it.

Drinks

More often than not, you might find yourself tempted to join the queue for a refreshing soya bean drink. Personally, I’d recommend giving it a pass, as it tends to be quite filling and leaves little room to savor the small bites along the way. Neither is the “air mata kuching” drinks stall across the street an option, as it has grown noticeably sweeter over the years.

Don’t worry, though; you can always opt for a refreshing “limau asam boi” from Westlake or a trusty bottle of mineral water to keep you hydrated throughout the day. And for those who prefer something stronger, read on for some insider tips for the likes of a gin and tonic.

Retail

Tucked away among your explorations, you’ll stumble upon some hidden retail gems that have stood the test of time. they beckon you to wander and discover.

Dexon Button Shop

Blocked by the numerous carts hoarding its’ front, Dexon is home to a collection of buttons, including metallic, shell, wooden, plastic, Chinese knotted buttons and rare fabric buttons, procured from near and far. In addition to its extensive button selection, this shop also operates as a haberdashery, offering zippers, needles, thread, and scissors. Don’t miss the antique manual riveting and fabric button machines on display.

Dexon provides button replacement services, with a typical wait time of about one to two hours, depending on the quantity.

Yat Hang Trading

A century-old treasure trove on Jalan Tun H.S. Lee, offers a fascinating journey through time among its ceramic wonders. The shelves are packed with vibrant red, yellow, and green longevity bowls, once commonplace in households. Careful navigation is key in this ceramic labyrinth. Among the intricate designs, the famille rose ceramics stand out, with their meticulously hand-painted patterns. What were once everyday tableware items from the 1940s to the 1960s have evolved into coveted collectibles, all available within this historic store’s three-storey building. Beyond its distinctive exterior, the shop offers traditional ceramic ware alongside modern kitchen utensils and crockery.

My personal favourites here are the classic kopitiam mugs, evoking nostalgia, and the jade chopstick holders discreetly displayed behind the cashier counter.

i Decor Home

This shop is quite the chameleon, adorning itself with decorations to match the various festivals celebrated in Malaysia. Whether it’s Chinese New Year, Christmas, or even Halloween, you’ll find it reflecting the spirit of the occasion. What remains a constant, however, is its collection of items that uphold Chinese wedding traditions, including combs, bowls, double happiness paper decorations, prosperity sets, and money packets. The true beauty here lies in its dedication to preserving these age-old traditions. Which keepsake will you choose to take home?

The Basket Shop

This shop offers a diverse range of baskets, from woven baskets to rattan food covers (tudung saji), dim sum steamer baskets, sepak takraw (kick volley ball) balls, and betrothal baskets. These betrothal baskets have an intriguing history, as they were once an essential part of Hokkien and Teochew wedding customs. During the betrothal ceremony, known as guo da li (过大礼), both the bride and groom’s families exchanged these baskets filled with betrothal gifts. These baskets symbolised the couple’s commitment to their marriage and the groom’s ability to provide for his bride.

Kiat Leong Stationery

an old-school stationery shop with a 40-year legacy, offers more than just typical office supplies. You can find a unique Malaysian calendar known as the “horse racing calendar” here. This special calendar not only includes Gregorian dates but also Hijri, Chinese, and Indian lunar months, making it multi-faceted. It features festive graphics for public holidays, pale yellow shading for school breaks, and even little galloping horses with jockeys to highlight turf meets. Some versions have Chinese zodiac signs at the top of each spread.

It’s so much a part of our homes, I recall a local cartoonist (Lat) included it in one of his works. In the cartoon,  a father asks his son to fetch him the calendar with the “little horses.”

Nanyang Art Supplies

KL Commercial Bookstore

Dragon Art (Komplex Selangor)

Located inside the slightly dated Kompleks Selangor, Dragon Art’s owner Lee, offers a deep dive into the world of calligraphy. Lee will patiently share the nuances of calligraphy tools, from brushes and paper to weights and carpets. The shop stocks a range of calligraphy essentials, including brushes, paper, and inkstones. You can also place an order for a personalised stamp in Chinese characters, crafter by Lee himself and there’s a seal carving service. with a turn around time of about three to four days.

Evergreen Tea House (Kompleks Selangor)

Step into this tea shop foryour ticket to tea-drinking like an emperor. Here, you’ll discover a selection of tea blends that cater to even the most discerning palates. Additionally, the shop offers tea-pouring demonstrations, and exquisite Chinese tea ware.