Penang
Penang
by Manjeet Dhillon
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sarongtrails
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Penang
Navigating Penang’s culinary culture is akin to embarking on a journey for your taste buds. While an exhaustive list of every stall and eatery across the island would be a Herculean task, fear not, as I’ve spared you the endless scrolling. Instead, I’ve charted a course on Google Maps, with explanations of several dishes to accompany your culinary exploration. It’s always a good idea to know what you’re about to savour!
I’ve thrown in a handy map with a list of must-see places. You’ll find everything from scenic nature walks and cycling routes through lesser-known parts of the island to the many heritage trades of Penang. Get ready to explore Penang like never before!
Click map below for a list of of eateries, ranging from charming sidewalk stalls to inviting kopitiam’s and restaurants across the island. And, if you’re in the mood for a tipple to either unwind afterward or perhaps even kickstart your culinary trail, I’ve included a couple of places that craft remarkable cocktails. Cheers!
Assam Laksa
A noodle soup with its own quirky twist – it skips the coconut milk in favour of tangy tamarind. Now, Penang’s assam laksa is like a sweet-and-sour flavor fiesta, with flaky mackerel taking a leisurely swim in a fiery red broth, spiced up by a duo of chili and shrimp paste.
As you dive into the deliciousness, you’ll find slippery, fat rice noodles mingling with a colourful crowd of herbs – lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, ginger flowers, and shallots. Topping it all off, there’s a sprig of Vietnamese coriander (or laksa leaf) and some finely sliced pineapple. A flavor-packed adventure, all in one bowl!
Chee Cheong Fun
Here’s the scoop on these marvellous rice noodles – they’re as plump as spring rolls and they’ve been taking a delightful dip in Penang’s unique sauce, thanks to the Cantonese folks. Now, chee cheong fun isn’t your ordinary noodle – it usually partners up with different condiments like soy sauce or sweet bean paste. But hold on, we’re talking about Penang! Influenced by Hokkien flavours, we keep it simple and classy – prawn paste, a dash of sugar, dark soy sauce, and just a pinch of sesame seeds.
Hokkien Mee / Hokkien Prawn Noodle
A delicate broth, from simmered shrimp heads, tails, and pork bones, with a little help from trusty onions and garlic – it even gets a sassy orange tint from a dab of chilli paste. This broth is poured over a tangle of noodles, joining a random mix of ingredients: hard-boiled eggs, smoky pork belly, crunchy mantis shrimp, a few sprigs of local water spinach (kangkung) for a dash of colour, and, on occasion, some quirky characters like chicken feet or intestines, just for kicks.
This is the Penang rendition of Hokkien Mee – it’s like the quirky cousin you didn’t expect, delightfully unique from the KL version.
Lor Mee / Loh Mee
Let’s dive into the world of “Lor Mee,” which translates to “braised noodles” from the Hokkien dialect. But wait, there’s a twist! The Hokkien version flaunts a thick, dark gravy. The secret to that rich color? Simmering pork belly with aromatics like Chinese five-spice powder, cinnamon, and star anise, spiced up with dark soy sauce, regular soy sauce, and oyster sauce. To give that gravy some oomph, tapioca or cornstarch steps in as the thickener. When it’s time to serve, Lor Mee brings along its entourage: garlic paste, chili, and Chinese black vinegar, creating a tasty symphony of flavors. And don’t be surprised if you find some crispy surprises in there, like fried fish cakes, wontons, and ngoh hiang, adding a crunch to the mix!
Nasi Dalca
The unsung hero of rice dishes in the North. Locals playfully call it “nasi ganja” – ganja meaning cannabis, but no need to worry, it’s, just a nod to how insanely addictive it is. Rice is simmered with lentils, onions, potatoes, and carrots, then spice it up with star anise, cinnamon, and cardamom. It’s like a creamy, savoury symphony in your mouth! Pair it with fried chicken, mutton kurma, veggies, and a hearty helping of kuah dalca (dalca gravy).
Nasi Kandar
Nasi Kandar isn’t just about the flavors; it’s a whole experience. The rice, which is the star of the show, comes in tall wooden containers, about three feet high. It’s not just a presentation; it actually adds a unique flavour to the dish.
For side dishes, you’ve got options like fried chicken, beef spleen curry, diced beef, lamb, fish roe, fried shrimp, and fried squid. But we’re not stopping there. There are also some veggies in the mix, featuring eggplant, okra (ladyfinger), or bitter gourd.
Here comes the grand finale – the “banjir” or flood. Picture this: a mouthwatering blend of mixed curry poured generously over the rice, turning your meal into a flavorful flood of deliciousness. Nasi Kandar isn’t just a dish; it’s a culinary adventure!
Nasi Kandar traces its roots back to the early 1900s, originating from Indian Muslim hawkers who served curry rice to port workers at Weld Quay in George Town, Penang. Early iterations included variations of fish curry with eggplant or okra, fried curry, beef, fried fish, and boiled eggs, typically costing 5 cents each. These hawkers initially operated near the docks, serving breakfast to dockers. As the years passed, they expanded their service to houses, and many could also be found along roadsides or beneath trees, carrying rice and curry containers on shoulder poles (kandar). By the mid-20th century, the traditional shoulder-pole (kandar) approach declined, and more vendors started selling Nasi Kandar in stalls and alleys. In the 1970s, the transition to the restaurant industry saw an expansion of menu options, with contemporary Nasi Kandar restaurants offering a wide array of curries, gravies, and side dishes.
Nasi Melayu
Put away your utensils – nasi melayu is a hands-on affair. There are no strict rules for what defines nasi Melayu; it’s essentially a canvas of white rice adorned with an array of Malay dishes. If you’re craving a little kick, you can spice things up with gulai ayam, curry fish head, and beef rendang.
But what truly makes nasi Melayu stand out is the ulam – fresh vegetables served au naturel or lightly blanched. You’ll discover a vibrant selection of locally sourced herbs, including ulam raja (cosmos caudatus or king’s salad), daun cekur (leaf from sand ginger), daun
selom (water dropworts), pucuk gajus (cashew leaves), petai (stink beans), pegaga (pennywort), and daun kaduk (wild betel leaves or piper sarmentosum), perfect for dipping into a dollop of freshly prepared and fiery sambal belacan (chilli’s, onions blended with shrimp paste). Grilled fish usually shares the spotlight with air asam, a condiment featuring bird’s eye chili, onions, diced tomatoes, kerisik (roasted grated coconut), belacan (shrimp paste), and tamarind juice. Dig in!
Nasi Padang
Nasi padang, a delicious Minangkabau creation hailing from West Sumatra, is a hearty meal that revolves around a plate of steamed rice. This sumptuous spread typically includes a variety of pre-cooked dishes like meats, fish, veggies, curries, and sambal.
In Malaysia, nasi padang stalls are easily recognisable by their distinctive window displays, showcasing an assortment of meticulously stacked bowls and plates filled with these delectable dishes. When enjoying nasi padang, you have two options: “pesan,” where you choose the dishes to be served directly on a plate of freshly scooped rice, or “hidang” ideal for larger groups. With hidang, a server brings both rice and numerous dishes to your table, allowing you to pick and pay only for the dishes you savour.
The selection is extensive, almost like a mini banquet experience, featuring dishes like beef rendang, curried beef liver, fried fish, stewed greens, fried beef lung, crispy fried chicken, and various sambals to elevate your dining experience.
Nasi Ulam (herb rice)
This rice dish features a blend of cooked rice tossed with finely-cut or shredded local herbs, including shallots, lemongrass, kafir lime leaves (daun limau perut), turmeric leaves (daun kunyit), basil leaves (daun selasih), dried shrimps, birds’ eye chilis, ulam raja, sand ginger (daun cekur), wild betel leaves (daun kaduk), torch ginger (bunga kantan), and fresh turmeric root (kunyit). The result is a medley of flavours and textures, making nasi ulam a true Peranakan culinary treasure.
Pasembor (Indian rojak)
Imagine a plate of pasembur as a delicious mix of edibles (the mix being “rojak”): it all starts with a foundation of cucumber strips, turnip (sengkuang) strips, and blanched bean sprouts. Layered with bite-sized deep-fried bean curd, crispy fritters, prawn fritters, boiled potatoes, and a perfectly hard-boiled egg.
And now, the pièce de résistance – the gravy. This thick, rich concoction is a mix of sweet potatoes, chilies, a dash of tamarind extract, and, of course, the star of the show: finely ground roasted peanuts. Every stall has its twist, so expect a hint of surprise in the flavour department. But no matter the recipe, you can count on it being sweet, spicy, and thick, with that irresistible peanut aroma.