Malacca in Two Days

I share with you a curated selection of Malacca that goes beyond the usual Jonker Street jaunts and fleeting visits. Allow your imagination to transcend boundaries

1. Portuguese Settlement

Cast your net at the edge of the city at the Portuguese settlement – known as Kampung Portugis in Bahasa Malaysia, and Padri sa Chang in the local Portuguese Creole tongue. Born from philanthropic endeavors of two priests between 1926 and 1934, this village emerged as home for the “Malacca Portuguese” (O’Neill, 2008: 55). The community is also known as Kristangs.

Here the initial dwellings of the settlement were constructed along streets named after prominent Portuguese figures, including Sequiera, Albuquerque, Texiera, and Day. You can explore a replica of an original historic home, which features a main hall, kitchen, and a porch with sea-shell flooring and attap roof, all neatly enclosed on a 12m by 24m area. The fishing boats are a testament to the community’s trade, which is slowly slipping by their fingers with the recent land reclamation.

Explore the narratives of the fishing community in Martin Theseira’s book: The Story of Pedro Theseira, The Fisherman (available at The Bendahari). Our feathered friends that coast the shoreline also endure a similar fate, learn more from Mataburung Klebang (FB: Burung.Hantu.Klebang). And for an interactive experience, join Martin’s virtual tribute: Tribute To Praya Lane, Melaka via @buddyzmalaysia

Did you know the Malay language has influences from the local Portuguese Creole, resulting in words like “kereta” (car), “almari” (cupboard), “boneka” (doll), and “meja” (table) woven into everyday communication?

If you’re feeling peckish, there’s Maureen’s Corner for a portion of “inchi mintu” or make your way to Jalan Kampung Pantai for pan mee (pork-free) and sui kow at De Ling Xung kopitiam. Once your meal is complete, take a leisurely walk down Lorong Jambatan, where you’ll discover a street that exudes a quaint charm, as if untouched by time. You can almost hear the stories it holds.

2. Jalan bunga Raya

Stroll towards Jalan Bunga Raya, the heart of Malacca’s Chinatown. As described by a tourist guide from 1936, “this street’s nightlife harkens back to old China. It bustles with Chinese bars, hotels, pharmacies, liquor shops, food stalls, shoe vendors, and fruit stands. The atmosphere is alive with fortune tellers and gamblers.” Today, structures exude a unique Art Deco charm, notably the Malacca Bazaar, once resembling an arcade with shops lining both sides of an open central passage. All that remains is a signage, a whisper of its history. Yet, this street continues to amuse me. It’s an eternal journey of discovery. Among its treasures are a record store: Yee Hai Record Co, various traditional medicine shops, photo studios, and, of course, Madam King’s—a true institution in its own right.

From Madam Kings, you’ll spy a line of people at the popiah (spring roll with pork lard) stall. Stand in line to try a spring roll or make your way back up Jalan Bunga Raya and turn right at Jalan Jawa.

3. Jalan Jawa

Continuing straight up the road toward Jalan Jawa, you’ll come up to Sin Hiap Hin, a charming bar. There’s a lychee liquor brewed in Batu Caves, and Aunty Lee Lian Suan expertly measures it out with a dram. This bar was founded by her father-in-law’s grandfather. It’s no-frills here. Just sheer nostalgia. Sit and let your thoughts take you for a walk to the 1920s: just around the corner from Sin Heap Hin, you would have found a Chinese theatre, gambling establishments, and opium dens. During the 1920s and 30s, this Chinese theatre, known as Poh Chong Chuen or Jewel of Spring, staged Malay wayangs in addition to Chinese opera to English plays based on the works of Shakespeare and more. The theatre was later a cinema for a brief period, but unfortunately demolished in 2001.

You’re facing a bridge (Ghost Bridge), turn right and walk along the path, exactyl across the Nasi Kandar restaurant, you’ll easily spot a display of clogs, also known as “cha kiak / 木屐” in Hokkien and “terompah” in Bahasa Malaysia. Tham Fong Lin has been practicing this craft for more than three decades, a skill that she inherited from her late father.

Head back towards the Ghost Bridge.

4. Tan Hoon Guan Bridge towards Jalan Kampung Pantai

Proceed along the “Ghost Bridge” (also known as the Tan Hoon Guan bridge), this bridge’s origins trace back to the Dutch era, and possibly even further, as it witnessed the constant influx of Javanese immigrants, mainly fishermen and traders. The Portuguese referred to it as Campon Jaio during their rule. The initial settlement of the Javanese community was within the vicinity of today’s Lorong Jambatan and Jalan Kampung Pantai intersection before they eventually moved to the northern bank of the Malacca River in the early 18th century. Subsequently, in the early 1920s, the community was resettled to a newly established village named Kampung Morten, allowing space for the construction of the Malacca Municipal Market.

There’s Loon Cheong, a kedai with kuih bahulu moulds, across from it, you’ll find an old-school goldsmith shop, worthy of a photograph, the bygone Wong Kwee Mau dentist, and a skilled key smith.

Night time and this lane takes on a different vibe, one where locals cluster for a night out.

5. Jalan Tokong (Temple Street) – Cheng Hoon Teng Temple

Discover the heart of local reverence at the Cheng Hoon Teng Temple, an ancient Taoist sanctuary and Malaysia’s oldest. Amidst the tranquility, witness devotees offering their respect to the Goddess of Mercy (Kuan Yin) statue, – the temple’s cherished deity from its inception in the 1600s. On the left stands Ma Choe Po, the Goddess of the Sea, while on the right, the figures of Kuan Ti, the God of War, and Tai Tor Kong, the God of Human Affairs, complete the spiritual tableau.

An impressive architecture of Southern Chinese influence, the eaves and ridges of the temple are decorated with figurines of Chinese mythology made out of broken porcelain and glass, glittering in the tropical sun. This porcelain craft is known as “chien nien”, which literally means “cut and glue”.

The temple features Southern Chinese aesthetics with intricately adorned eaves and ridges adorned with sculptures depicting elements of Chinese mythology. These sculptures are meticulously crafted from fragments of porcelain and glass, creating a stunning display that glistens under the tropical sun. This art form, known as “chien nien,” translates to “cut and glue,” signifying the intricate craftsmanship involved in its creation.

Amidst the temple’s beams, you’ll spot curious sculptures of load bearers, seemingly out of place in a Taoist context. Yet, intriguingly, these figures share an unexpected similarity with their counterparts found in Hindu temples. Swipe left to delve into their enthralling story. Delighted in discovering these intricacies, I’m reminded that often, it’s the seemingly small details that hold the most captivating tales, drawing us into a journey of exploration and understanding.

Leaving the temple, you’ll find to the left, the unobtrusive entrance of Kampung Ketek (formerly known as Kampung Pali). Pause a while, won’t you? Let’s stroll down this narrow lane together, unveiling that which awaits beyond this unassuming facade. Swipe left for more insight.

5. Temple Street towards Jalan Tukang Emas (Goldsmith Street)

Walking back out on Temple Street, towards Goldsmith Street, you’ll notice several Chinese funerary shops lining the street. These shops offer a variety of items that hold deep cultural and spiritual significance in Chinese traditions. Your gaze will lead you to “hell money,” intricately designed notes that are burnt as offerings to ancestors in the afterlife. Search and you’ll come across ornate paper replicas of everyday items like clothing, cars, and even mobile phones. These replicas are meant to provide material comfort to the deceased in the spirit realm, a reflection of Chinese beliefs about the continuity of life beyond the earthly realm.

As you continue your walk, take a moment to absorb the intricate details and profound symbolism present, they offer a glimpse into the deep-rooted spiritual connection that continues to shape the rituals and practices of the local Chinese community.

Finders keepers at this shop: discover the terracotta haven of How Boon Joo on 13 Temple Street. Within, you’ll encounter replicas of tiles, Nyonya ceramics, and facades reminiscent of Peranakan shop houses.

6. Jalan Tukang Emas (Goldsmith Street) – Kampung Kling Mosque

Amidst the serenity, the air might stir with the soulful call of the muezzin, drifting from the nearby Kampung Kling Mosque. Originating as a wooden sanctuary in 1748, crafted by the Indian Muslim community, it underwent a rebirth in brick in 1872. Its minaret graces the skyline above Goldsmith Street.

As you stand before its entrance, let your gaze ascend to the alcoves, where an inverted lotus motif rests delicately. Stepping inside the prayer hall, a fusion of influences unfolds – Corinthian columns, Majolica tiles, and ornate carvings on the beams. Let your eyes wander, and there you’ll find a gilded mimbar, intricate floral carvings reminiscent of Peranakan aesthetics. Can you discern the hidden Chinese characters of double “xi”?

Exiting in silence, you’re greeted by a beautiful fountain at the heart of an ablution pool. This space radiates tranquility. Pause, absorbing the intricate details, the narratives, and the cultural depth within the walls of this sacred structure. It’s an immersion into the core of Malacca’s heritage, a poignant reminder that the city’s vibrant tapestry is woven with threads of history.

7. Jalan Tukang Emas (Goldsmith Street) – Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar Moorthi Temple

Just a few steps away lies the Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar Moorthi Temple, built in 1781 by the Chitty community. The central altar is devoted to Lord Ganesha. Step into its hallowed precincts during worship hours and you’ll be greeted by an atmosphere of vibrant energy. The air resonates with the sound of bells, while the soft glow of oil lamps casts a warm, serene light. The fragrance of incense weaves through the prayer chambers, where priests in sarongs stand bare-chested, and devout worshippers, with yellow flower garlands of offering, gather for prayers. You can’t help but be drawn into a profound moment of spiritual connection.

Emerging from this immersive moment, your senses still tingling with the echoes of devotion, you’ll find yourself at The Clay House, a charming establishment lovingly run by Leong and Loh. Here, a world of clay works awaits – replicas of Malaccan houses, exquisitely crafted incense burners, earthen-hued coffee mugs, and delicately designed floral wall sculptures. Walk further in, towards their workshop to watch where the magic of creation unfolds.

8. The Bendahari for lunch (Thursday – Sunday only) 

I hear those rumbling tummies! Get ready for a delectable lunch experience at The Bendahari, where a piping hot bowl of laksa awaits you. As you step in, you’ll find yourself immersed in a true tribute to the essence of Malacca. After your meal, linger longer and treat yourself to a gula melaka latte. And while you’re there, take your time to explore the shop – a haven for bookworms seeking tales of Malacca’s history.

9. Kampung Morten (evening walk) 

As the day winds down, stroll along the Malacca riverbank, leading your steps towards Kampung Morten.

Our day comes to a close, with a well-deserved drink at Budi. It’s a finders keepers sort of place, locate Sin See Tai coffee shop along Jalan Jawa, press the bell, and ascend the stairway to your right. I’ll let you unfold the rest, as for me, it’s time for a restful night’s sleep.

I did say Malacca is not a fleeting visit.

10. Baba Nyonya Museum (Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock or Heeren Street)

Rise and shine! Today is all about igniting your curiosity even further.

Where are we headed, you ask? Follow me to the Baba Nyonya Museum on Heeren Street (Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock). Follow closely, as we go up the kaki lima (five foot path way), through the front door. From the tiah datuk (first hall) to the tiah gelap (second hall), from airy courtyards to ancestral halls, bedrooms, a bridal chamber, and a bustling kitchen, every inch of this space breathes history. The treasures within include blackwood furniture adorned with intricate mother of pearl inlays, silk paintings, and thoughtfully curated artifacts that offer glimpses into daily life. Take a closer look – notice the absence of chopsticks at the tok panjang (dining table), spot the peephole in the bridal chamber, and keep an eye out for the kitchen god altar. Each corner holds a discovery waiting to be made.

Wasn’t that simply breathtaking? But now, I must gently pull you away – let’s continue up the street. We take a brief detour to visit Hueman Studio at 105 Heeren Street. Owner Kooi Hin’s mastery lies in woodcut prints, an age-old technique with origins dating back to the 8th century, each piece meticulously crafted with artistic precision. There’s also mementos from Melaka alongside handicrafts crafted by Orang Asli. Here is a shop with a touch of cultural authenticity. With our shopping done, we continue on, passing by the Chee Mansion, en route to Tranquerah Road. Tranquerah or “palisades” (which were built during the Portuguese period as the first line of defence against intruders coming from the beach) is an often forgotten corner of Malacca. Here, still water runs deep, in the words of a 1936 tourist guide to Malacca, Tranquerah Road was a panorama of Malay kampungs, intermingled with Chinese and Eurasian houses.

11. Jalan Tranquerah (Tranquerah Street)

Curious, aren’t you? Let’s chat over a Peranakan Chitty (or Chetti) lunch at Wen’s Kitchen. This cuisine is a blend of Indian and Malay culinary traditions: Indian spices meld with Malay ingredients such as belacan (shrimp paste), serai (lemongrass), lengkuas (wild ginger), pandan leaf, and coconut milk, giving rise to distinctively flavourful Chetti Melaka dishes.

While you’re there, be sure to ask Bert, one of the founders of Melaka in Fact, to share the fascinating work undertaken by the team to document the narrative of Tranquerah Street. Their efforts provide an insightful glimpse into the rich history and culture of the Tranquerah landscape.

Having teased yourself with Wen’s cooking, you now make your way to Gajah Berang, where you meet the Peranakan Chitty community. Most Chetti Melaka families are concentrated in close-knit communities within areas such as Gajah Berang, Bachang, Tranquerah, and Kampung Tujoh (now known as Kampung Chetti). To learn more, book a walk with Nisha (mobile: +6 012 6177 817), a true blue Peranakan Chitty, ask her about Sembahyang Dato Chachar,

I’ll let you go now to explore snapshots of old Malacca by swiping left. But our paths will cross again, I’ll be here, right in time for the Wangkang festival. Till then, toodle doo.

Conversations with a local – Shaukani Abbas

The charm of Malacca goes beyond its eclectic allure. To truly grasp the Malacca narrative, one requires a skilled storyteller who can unravel the tales of traders, seafarers, and the echoes of characters that once roamed the city. Shaukani, a Malaccan, has many tales in his pockets during his evening walks. You can reach Shaukani at +6 012 612 0618.