Kopi Lah!

Kopi Lah!

by Manjeet Dhillon
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sarongtrails

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A Bitter-Sweet Tale

In the late 19th century, coffee made its grand entrance to Malaya, with Liberica beans flourishing across low-altitude estates. Selangor was a hub, boasting plantations in areas like Bukit Nanas, Batu Caves, and Klang. Selangor, coffee estates, managed by adventurous planters who named them after places back home (like Wardieburn and Hawthornden). The Eveleen Estate was one of the coffee plantations in the Kuala Lumpur area during the late 19th century. Spanning about 100 acres, it was located along a narrow strip parallel to Batu Road (now Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman) and about half a mile from town. For a while, it seemed coffee might dominate the region’s agricultural landscape.

But the 1890s brought tough competition. Brazil’s booming coffee industry flooded the global market, driving prices down. As if that wasn’t enough, a fungal disease called coffee leaf rust swept through the plantations, devastating crops. By the end of the century, rubber emerged as the new cash crop, and coffee estates began to dwindle.

Still, traces of those early plantations remain, and every sip of local coffee today carries echoes of that history.

Fun fact: Our buzzing friends, the kelulut bees, were coffee’s tiny pollinators back in the day!

Fun fact: The term “kopitiam” itself is a blend of “kopi” (Malay for coffee) and “tiam” (Hokkien for shop), reflecting the multicultural and inclusive essence that defines these iconic spaces.

Exploring Nanyang Coffee Culture: From Factory to Cup

Visit Jeffrey Lim’s website: Kopi Lau Workshop—a research project exploring the Nanyang/Nusantara coffee culture of Peninsular Malaysia, from factory* to cup. Discover insights into the tools of the trade, kopi workshops, an online digital map of authentic traditional and contemporary kopitiams along the Peninsular west coast, and publications: https://sites.google.com/view/kopilau/

Cracking the Kopi Code: How to Order Coffee in Malaysia Without Getting Lost in Translation

So you’re in Malaysia and craving a coffee. Lucky you, because here, it’s not just coffee; it’s kopi, the local brew that’s been perfected with a double roasting—once traditionally and then with butter and sugar. The result? A caramelised hug in a cup that’ll have your taste buds grooving.

Now, before you dive into the menu, let’s clear up the basics. Coffee here is called “kopi” (pronounced ko-peeh), and tea is “teh” (teh). Both come with their own fun-sized lingo, but don’t worry, it’s as easy as sipping your first cup.

Kedai Kopi Sungai Jarom by Gan Chin Lee

Name Pronounciation Description
Kopi ko-peeh This is your classic “kopi-with-a-kick” – black coffee with a generous dollop of condensed milk. Because, let’s face it, black coffee without a little sweetness is like karaoke night without a microphone – a bit underwhelming.
Kopi O ko-peeh oh You want black coffee? This is your jam. But be warned, unless you specify “kurang manis” (pronounced kur-ang ma-nis, which means “less sweet”), you might end up with a sugar rush that’ll make your eyeballs ping pong. Or sk for “kopi-o kosong” – for black coffee without sugar.
Kopi C ko-peeh see Craving something a little creamier? Kopi C is your sugar-infused buddy, with evaporated milk instead of condensed milk. Think of it as the “adult” version of the classic kopi.
Kopi C kosong ko-peeh see co-soh-ung Hold the sugar! This bad boy is just coffee and evaporated milk, perfect for those who like their coffee like their jokes – dark and dry.
Kopi O kosong ko-peeh oh coh-soh-ung No sugar, no milk, just pure, bold coffee. For those who like their brew as strong as their opinions.
Kopi Peng ko-peeh peh-eng Beat the heat with this iced coffee with condensed milk. “Peng” means “iced,” so it’s basically a cool and refreshing hug in a cup.
Kopi Tarik ko-peeh tah-rik Witness the magic of “kopi tarik,” which means “pulled coffee.” This sweet coffee with a frothy top is prepared with a bit of theatrics, as the coffee is literally pulled back and forth between two containers. It’s a fun show and a delicious drink!
Cham chahm Tea and coffee, sweetened with condensed milk, because why settle for one when you can have the best of both?
So, the next time you sip on a cup of kopi at your favourite kopitiam, take a moment to appreciate the bittersweet legacy in your cup. It’s a brew that survived competition, a fungal villain, and even a rubber revolution, now that’s resilience worth raising a toast to!
P.S. My favourite cup? It’s in Ipoh at Ah Chow’s—where the kopi comes with a cheeky shot of whisky. Because, why not?