Sabah

Hinava, a jewel of Sabah’s Kadazan-Dusun cuisine, offers an explosion of fresh and vibrant flavors. This ceviche-like dish features thinly sliced tenggiri fish (mackerel) bathed in a citrusy marinade. The tanginess comes from fresh lime juice, perfectly complemented by the fiery kick of chilies, the sharp bite of grated ginger and shallots, and the earthy depth of grated Bambangan seeds. A touch of bitter gourd adds a unique counterpoint, creating a complex and refreshing flavor profile.

Prepared fresh, hinava is best enjoyed soon after making due to the use of lime juice as a “cooking” agent. Traditionally served as a starter or an entrée alongside steamed rice, this versatile dish can also be enjoyed with other variations, featuring prawns or squid in place of fish.

Ambuyat is a unique staple in Sabah cuisine, offering a textural experience unlike any other. This starchy, translucent, and gooey dish is made from sago, a starchy extract from the sago palm tree. While naturally bland, ambuyat serves as a blank canvas for bolder flavors. It’s traditionally paired with dishes bursting with aroma and spice, such as sambal belacan (a spicy shrimp paste sauce) or pinasakan (a fermented fish dish from the Kadazan-Dusun people).

Diners use a pair of chopsticks or a special candas (bamboo fork) to skillfully twirl and roll the ambuyat, creating a small, sticky portion. This bite is then dipped into the accompanying sauce or savoured alongside another flavourful dish.

Sarawak

Belacan Bee Hoon: Don’t be fooled by the simple name! Sarawak’s belacan bee hoon is a vibrant melody of flavors. Vermicelli noodles bathe in a punchy belacan (shrimp paste) broth, punctuated by the refreshing crunch of julienned cucumber and cuttlefish. Spicy chilies add a fiery kick, while a squeeze of calamansi cuts through the richness, creating a truly unforgettable dish. Often enjoyed as a teatime treat, belacan bee hoon can also be complemented by savory century egg slices.

Umai: Dive into a taste of tradition with umai, a dish born from the ingenuity of Sarawak’s Melanau fishermen. This refreshing salad features thinly sliced fresh fish “cooked” through a unique marinade of chilies, salt, and lime juice. The result? A vibrant explosion of textures and flavors – slightly spicy, tangy, and guaranteed to tantalize your taste buds. Feeling adventurous? Try umai with sago worms for an extra crunch!

Kacangma: Sarawak’s kacangma offers a glimpse into local traditions. Originally a comforting confinement dish for Hakka women after childbirth, kacangma has transcended its roots to become a beloved local favorite. Packed with flavor and nutrients, this unique dish combines motherwort, tender chicken, a generous portion of ginger, and sweet Hakka rice wine. While familiar palates may require an adjustment, kacangma offers a heartwarming culinary journey for those willing to explore.

Kelantan

Kelantanese cuisine is renowned for its vibrant blue nasi kerabu (blue rice). This fragrant rice is coloured naturally with bunga telang (pea flower) petals. Local cooks incorporate a colourful array of herbs – including daun kentut (stink bean leaves), daun kudu (wild betel leaves), and cekur (alangium salvifolium leaves) – to create captivating shades of red, black, and blue. This aromatic rice is served with a generous portion of ulam (fresh herbs and vegetables). Imagine a delightful medley of local mint, basil, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, turmeric leaves, and raw vegetables like bean sprouts, green beans, shallots, and cucumber. The ulam is further complemented by bolder flavours like salted eggs or fish, dried shrimp, fish crackers, and kerisik (toasted coconut flakes). Kelantan also boasts its own version of nasi dagang (steamed glutinous rice with coconut milk), typically paired with a fragrant chicken curry, offering an alternative to the classic fish curry.

Terengganu

Terengganu’s culinary scene is a haven for snack lovers. A must-try is keropok lekor, crispy cylindrical fritters made from a delicious blend of pounded fish and flour, deep-fried golden brown and served with a fiery chilli sauce. This state also offers its own take on nasi dagang, featuring aromatic glutinous rice cooked with coconut milk and paired with a flavourful fish curry. Alongside this main course, you’ll often find acar, a refreshing pickled cucumber and carrot salad, providing a delightful contrast of textures and flavours. Terengganu’s sweet tooth is satiated with kuih akok, a half-egg-shaped cake made from rice flour. This delightful treat boasts a sweet centre filled with syrup, or for a savoury twist, minced beef and chilli.

Pahang

Venture south of Terengganu to Pahang, a state brimming with culinary delights. Here, breakfast takes on a unique flavour with lempeng nyior, fluffy and savoury coconut pancakes. These delightful pancakes are traditionally paired with a fiery sambal (chilli paste) made with sardines or anchovies, and a side of spicy egg, creating a vibrant symphony of tastes.

Pahang’s culinary journey extends beyond breakfast. Explore jantung pisang masak lemak, a vibrant dish featuring banana flowers simmered in a fragrant coconut milk curry infused with turmeric, lemongrass, and chilies. For a savoury treat, indulge in tembosa, flaky fish curry puffs that burst with flavour, or satak, a local delicacy similar to otak-otak but with a unique twist – cooked with lemongrass and onion.

For a taste of tradition, try ikan singgang, a beloved dish among villagers. This simple stew showcases the bounty of local waters, featuring either freshwater fish like jelawat or marine fish like ikan kembung. The fish is simmered with thinly sliced lengkuas (galangal), turmeric, and fresh bird’s eye chilies, resulting in a flavorful broth bursting with aromatics. Ikan singgang is typically served with steamed white rice and a side of sambal belacan, completing this satisfying and authentic Pahang experience.

Johor

Malacca

Embark on a culinary adventure through Malacca’s renowned Nyonya cuisine, a vibrant blend of Chinese and Malay influences. Savor the tangy and spicy asam pedas, a fish dish brimming with coriander, chilies, tamarind, and the unique shrimp paste known as belacan. For a sweet ending, indulge in bubur caca, a delightful dessert featuring steamed sweet potato, colorful tapioca pearls, and chewy jelly, all bathed in creamy coconut milk.

Negeri Sembilan

Brace yourself for the fiery delights of Negeri Sembilan! Here, chili lovers rejoice with lemak cili api, the state’s signature dish. Imagine tender fish (or chicken, or prawns) swimming in a fragrant coconut milk curry infused with turmeric, lemongrass, and the fiery kick of chilies. For the truly adventurous, explore sambal tempoyak daun kayu, a complex dish featuring a mind-boggling 44 types of wild ingredients like ferns, leaves, and roots, all simmered with pungent fermented durian (tempoyak).

Selangor

Selangor offers a diverse culinary landscape. Sample the rich and flavorful sambal tahun, a dish featuring cockles or beef tripe cooked in a coconut gravy with a generous dose of chilies. This is often accompanied by ketupat daun palas, glutinous rice parcels wrapped in fragrant palas leaves. Craving something different? Opt for the classic spicy beef rendang or ayam masak kicap – fried chicken in a savory soy sauce sauce served with springy glass noodles.

Perak

Perak boasts its own unique take on the beloved rendang. Here, rendang tok features a drier texture compared to the classic rendang found elsewhere. But don’t miss the traditional kelamai, a delightful treat made from glutinous rice, brown sugar, and coconut milk residue. This unique dessert undergoes a fascinating three-day fermentation process before being baked in bamboo sticks over hot coals.

Penang

When it comes to Penang, nasi kandar takes center stage. This iconic rice-based buffet offers a dazzling spread of curries, vegetables, and no fewer than 10 different meat and seafood options to choose from. Don’t miss the kari kepala ikan (fish head curry) for a truly unique culinary experience. Craving something lighter? Try pasembur, a refreshing vegetable salad drenched in a sweet and spicy peanut sauce with a base of mashed sweet potato.

Kedah

Freshness reigns supreme in Kedah’s cuisine. Savor the aromatic ayam golek (spicy roasted chicken) marinated in fragrant herbs and spices. Sample the smoky goodness of daging bakar (grilled beef tenderloin) infused with coconut milk and turmeric, or indulge in a bowl of bihun utara, rice noodles bathed in a rich and flavorful beef broth.

Perlis

Perlis cuisine showcases a touch of Thailand with its use of tamarind. Sample the unique ikan bakar air asam (barbecued fish in tamarind sauce) for a tangy and flavorful experience. Here, even laksa, a noodle soup traditionally found throughout Malaysia, gets a spicy Perlis twist with the addition of belacan to the fish gravy.

This exploration has merely scratched the surface of Malaysia’s culinary landscape. Every state offers a unique perspective on food, shaped by its history, geography, and cultural influences. From the fiery curries of the south to the fresh seafood dishes of the east coast, Malaysia’s cuisine is a testament to its diversity. So, pack your hunger and a spirit of discovery – your delicious adventure through Malaysia awaits!

Reference:

• Encyclopedia of Malaysia V14: People & Traditions by Hood Salleh
• Bekwoh: Stories & Recipes from Peninsula Malaysia’s East Coast by Bryan Koh
• At the South-East Asian table by Alice Yen Ho
• Kuih: From Apam to Wajik by Hidayah Amin