Old KL – Confluence Call, Railway Arches, Straits Trading Company & FMS Railway Office

Old KL – Confluence Call, Railway Arches, Straits Trading Company & FMS Railway Office

Categories: Bygone Days
by Manjeet Dhillon
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Categories: Bygone Days

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sarongtrails

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Old KL

Have you ever wondered where Kuala Lumpur truly began? Not on a map, but in a moment etched in time? Mari, join Bujang Masa Lalu on a journey back in time! We’ll stand at the confluence of the Klang and Gombak Rivers, where the past mingles with the currents of history. A turning point that birthed a city from the heart of the jungle.

1. Confluence Call (River of Life)

Right here at this very spot where the confluence of the Klang and Gombak Rivers marks a meeting of epochs. Here, the past converges with the present, and the future takes shape in the currents of history.

Transported to the year 1857, you find yourself a humble observer within the midst of this dense tropical jungle overgrowth, each step leaving your slippers caked with mud. The midday sun beats down mercilessly, sweat stinging your eyes as you hacked your way through the dense foliage. Around you, the Mandailing residents of Kampung Rawa go about their daily routines. As you tread this path, curiosity draws the village children towards your unfamiliar presence. Their wide eyes mirror the wonder of this encounter, and the relentless chirping of crickets provides the backdrop, punctuated by the few persistent mosquitoes on your trail. In this serene moment, the air hangs thick with the midday heat, broken only by the relentless chirping of crickets. Suddenly, a muezzin’s call to prayer slices through the stillness, its high-pitched melody echoing across the river. A poignant reminder of faith amidst the untamed wilderness.

In a sudden flurry of activity, the tranquil village by the river bank comes to life, drawing your attention. As you turn to face the source of the commotion, a remarkable sight unfolds before you. A flotilla of sampans, nearly 87 men strong, in shorts and their heads shaded by the broad-brimmed Chinese wicker hat, drifted upriver, steadily approaching the confluence where the Klang and Gombak Rivers meet. Among the weary passengers are Chinese men, some squatting, their faces marked with exhaustion. Upon their arrival, a man stands and warmly greets the village headman, leading to an animated conversation. (Note: this expedition was the brainchild of Raja Juma’at, (a man of wealth accrued from mining ventures in Lukut, located in the north), who joined forces with his brother, Raja Abdullah, (the chief of the historical capital of Klang). To bolster their resources, they secured additional capital from two Chinese businessmen residing in Malacca, Chee Yam Chuan and Lim Say Hoe. Together, this unlikely group embarked on an expedition to explore the uncharted jungles along the upper reaches of the Klang River.)

Shortly after, the miners disembarked along the muddy riverbanks, unloaded their provisions, and organised them into bundles carried on their heads as they ventured deep into the jungle. A few miles ahead, they reached the area now known as Ampang, named for the dams the miners built. This marked the outskirts of what would eventually become modern Kuala Lumpur, where they began to prospect for tin. They toiled diligently, delving into the mud-racked city, and their efforts were rewarded as they unearthed the glistening treasure of tin. And Kuala Lumpur’s destiny took a momentous turn, forever altering the course of its days.

  • The first permanent bridge, a wooden structure, built across the Klang River was the Market Street Bridge (Lebuh Pasar Besar). It was constructed in 1883 to take the place of the felled tree trunk which had served the purpose to that date. This timber structure was replaced in 1890 by the 30-metre lattice girder bridge seen in the postcard below, taken in the early 1900s.

  • Why do the pages of history tell of 87 men descending the river’s course towards the confluence, yet fail to capture the essence of time or the Mandailing community’s response? Imagine the curiosity that must have stirred among the kampung residents, the mix of oddity and suspicion at the sight of this sizable procession. In a world of quiet routines and limited interaction, where each village stood as its own entity, what thoughts must have swirled within the hearts of Kg Rawa’s inhabitants as that unprecedented expedition unfolded before them?

  • But how to be sure of the place where the tin ore lay buried? Quite simply, really, with a dash of superstition, the Chinese miners wisely teamed up with the Malays, who were rumoured to have quite the social circle among the local genies. It involved some deliberation:

    First, the magician, donned in a black tunic reserved solely for him, instructed the miners in the construction of an altar dedicated to the spirits. Then, he conducted his prayers. During this sacred ritual, he stood with his left hand on his hip, simultaneously waving a long piece of white cloth in his right hand, invoking the spirits by name. Following this, he moved slowly back and forth, holding a switch that served as a diviner’s wand. He could discern the presence of tin by feeling its vibrations. Once they located the tin, typically six to ten feet below the surface, the miners dug a small pit or shaft. This successful test assured them it was safe to commence mining. (Adapted from Malay Magic by Walter William Skeat)

As Bujang Masa Lalu reaches the confluence, the world around him shimmers and transforms. Gone are the tranquil sounds of the jungle; a cacophony of activity assaults his senses. The rhythmic creak of rickshaws pulling their passengers, the guttural shouts of merchants hawking their wares, and the distant wail of a steam train whistle fill the air. A haze of dust and smoke hangs low, tinged with the metallic tang of sweat and exertion. He squints through the haze to see a scene teeming with life. Men, clad in sleeveless t-shirts and shorts, jostle for position, pushing carts laden with glistening tin ore. Rickshaws weave through the throng, their drivers shouting warnings and curses. The air crackles with raw energy.

2. Railway Arches and Straits Trading Company (STC)

Strolling along the Market Street bridge, you’ll notice remnants of an arch wall to your left. Once, behind these walls stood the goods shed of the Federated Malay States Railway. On the opposite side of the road, you’d find the Straits Trading Company (STC), which served as the bustling hub for the delivery and sale of tin ore destined for export. Picture the vibrant scene on this very street: rickshaws weaving through the hustle and bustle, men darting amidst carts loaded with precious tin ore. It was a cacophony of activity, a snapshot of the city’s vibrant past.

  • In 1886, the Selangor government granted the STC the sole right to buy tin ore for export. This decision was in part prompted by the fact that local traders and miners find it difficult to obtain cash advances (in the Straits Settlements), however valuable the houses or other property in Selangor, which they can offer as security.

  • STC built the Butterworth Smelting Works in 1902 to complement their existing facility on Pulau Brani, Singapore. This facility was acquired by Malaysia Smelting Corporation Berhad  in 1982.

    History of The Straits Trading Company
    Incorporated in 1887 by German businessman Herman Muhlinghaus and Scotsman James Sword, the STC took over five small ships, including the Sappho and Malacca, and other experienced ore carriers plying the coastal trade route. Three years later, STC opened its first smelting plant in Singapore’s Pulau Brani. By 1912 (first 25 years of the STC), Malaya produced half the world’s tin, two thirds of this was smelted by the STC.

    When the Federal Secretariat (Bangunan Sultan Abdul Samad) foundation stone was laid, it included, in a cavity below the stone, a piece of Straits Tin by the Company, a mute reminder to this day of the base on which so much of the country’s wealth and progress has been built up.

    In 1907, STC donated a large bell to the St Mary’s Anglican Church of Kuala Lumpur, which is hidden at the back in the Women’s Auxiliary Hall. Still there ? …can’t say. Shall we go look?

3. FMS Railway Office (Textile Museum)

The present building we see today wasn’t always there. Its story begins with a more modest building, a one-story structure erected around 1895 for the Selangor Railway Service office building. However, its reign was brief. By 1901, the Federated Malay States (FMS) had been formed, uniting the railway lines of Perak, Selangor, and Sungei Ujong (now Seremban). As a consequence, in 1904, the one-story building was demolished to pave the way for the 1905 FMS Railway Central Offices, which eventually evolved into the beautiful landmark we see today.

The 1905 FMS Railway Service building wasn’t just a railway headquarters. After serving as railway headquarters, it transitioned to house the Selangor Public Works Department in 1917, followed by various government departments, Bank Negara Malaysia including the Appellate Court (2001-2004).

Today, this historical site is home to the Textile Museum. The museum’s exterior is adorned with eye-catching salmon-red and white bands, achieved through the alternating use of exposed brick and white plaster bands. I must say, I find this building quite charming, as it stands gracefully on the corner.

  • In 1917, the FMS Railway Central Offices found a new home in a three-story building – the FMS Railway Administration Building. This impressive structure, located along Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin, remains the current headquarters of Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad (KTMB). Across the road is the former Kuala Lumpur Railway Station.

  • Malaya’s first railway with metal rails, was built to transport tin from Taiping to Port Weld, covering a distance of approximately 13 kilometres, and was inaugurated in 1885. Prior to the construction of this railway, the transportation of tin involved the use of elephants, making for a multi-day journey to reach the port.

  • Secret library towards the back. On the ground floor, head towards the washroom and take the side stairs one level up.

  • Little is often said about the Central Railway Workshops in Sentul.

  • [Side note] Kuala Lumpur’s former railway station, wasn’t always the grand dame we see today. It’s actually the third in a fascinating railway lineage, and by far the most enduring one.

      • Circa 1886: While some accounts, like JHM Robson’s in “Records and Recollections,” place the first station around the current PWD offices (National Textile Museum), describing this humble beginning as “little more than a glorified shed.”
        • On the other hand, JM Gullick in “A History of Kuala Lumpur” suggests a location 1 km north of the present old station.
      • 1892: The second station emerged, situated on the current site of the “old” Kuala Lumpur Railway Station. This structure marked a significant upgrade, boasting a more substantial design amidst a cluster of smaller buildings.
      • July 1, 1911: The grand Kuala Lumpur Railway Station, the one we admire today, officially opened its doors.
      • April 16, 2001: The arrival of KL Sentral in 2001 signalled a bittersweet farewell for the old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station. The grand dame transitioned to a quieter role, serving commuters with KTM Komuter services.

Before we part ways, shall we take a nostalgic drift back to 1915 Kuala Lumpur?  Ah, what memories come flooding back! Market Street unfolds before us, bustling with life, buzzing with conversations in various tongues, and what is that I hear? – but the sounds of the rhythmic tap-tap-tap of a cobbler’s hammer. Sin Seng Nam stands proudly on the left, while the distinguished Caxton Press and the stately Mercantile Bank flank the right.

Oh, how I adore those advertisements lining the sides of the buildings. Imagine that—an “Old Tom Gin” ad boldly displayed on a building’s facade! Such a sight would be quite scandalous today. Has society really changed, or is it just the billboards?

Go ahead now, what else do you spy with your eye? What stories do you find yourself yearning to uncover about Kuala Lumpur’s history? Until next time, travel well! 

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