Old KL – Chartered Bank of India, Australia and China, Government Printing Office, Selangor Recreation Club, KL Book Club & Victoria Fountain
Old KL – Chartered Bank of India, Australia and China, Government Printing Office, Selangor Recreation Club, KL Book Club & Victoria Fountain
by Manjeet Dhillon
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Old KL (Colonial Core)
Bujang squints at the sun, his sarong hitched up a notch. The midday sun beats down, but a flicker of recognition crosses his weathered face. His gaze falls upon a grand building.
4. Chartered Bank of India, Australia and China
Bujang puffs on his pipe, smoke curling into the air. Eyeing the dilapidated building. “What in tarnation happened here? Plants growing out of the walls? Wasn’t like this back in the day. This was home to the Chartered Bank of India, Australia, and China.
Back in 1888, they rented a little space on the upper floor of a shophouse belonging to the Straits Trading Company on Market Street (now Lebuh Pasar Besar). A tiny acorn with dreams of becoming a mighty oak.
But Kuala Lumpur was a city on the move, and the bank wasn’t one to lag behind. They saw the city’s potential and soon outgrew their cosy space. By 1891, they had their own dedicated building, right here on this very spot!
As their business boomed, so did their need for a bigger and sturdier home. . The little single-story just wouldn’t cut it anymore. So, they built this grand structure you see today, with all the bells and whistles, including strong rooms and fancy alarms to scare away any pencuri (burglars).
But function wasn’t everything. The architects added some pizazz too! Bujang gestures upwards. See those domes? Crafted from the iron-hard belian wood, all the way from Sarawak! And those pointed arches above the entrance and windows? Those are called horseshoe arches, adding a touch of elegance. Quite the majestic look, wouldn’t you say?
The bank served Kuala Lumpur faithfully until 1965. Then, its story takes a fascinating turn! It housed various government departments, became the Kuala Lumpur District and Land Office, and even the Federal Territory Religious Affairs Office! Quite the mix, eh? In 1991, it transformed into the National History Museum, but that adventure ended in 2007. Since then, it’s been a bit of a chameleon—a restaurant, a music museum—and now, well, it seems they can’t decide what to do with her anymore.
5. Government Printing Office
Look! Right next door, we have another contender, languishing for the “Most Neglected Historical Building” award! The former government printing press, recently vacated (2024), appears eager to share the same fate as its neighbour. Empty and forlorn, its windows flung open like pleading arms, surrendering its once-proud wooden floors to the relentless humidity. A real testament to our city’s dedication to preserving its heritage, wouldn’t you agree? Is this what we want for our city’s heritage? Let’s raise some voices!.
The late 19th century saw a surge in printing needs. Taiping got the first printing office in 1888, but Kuala Lumpur wasn’t far behind. In 1890, a small operation with only ten workers and basic machinery sprouted up on Bluff Road, just a stone’s throw away. Think of it as a tiny sapling compared to the mighty oak it would become! Fast forward nine years, and this little printing press found itself overlooking the Padang in a grand new building—the very one we see today! But the story doesn’t end there, folks. By 1904, the Taiping Government Printing Office decided to, well, call it a day and merge their operations with Kuala Lumpur’s to create a single, federally-run powerhouse known as the Government Printing Office. (Note: Today, this historic building continues its legacy under a new name: Percetakan Nasional Malaysia Berhad, located on Jalan Chan Sow Lin. But Bujang has a feeling these walls still hold some juicy printing secrets waiting to be unearthed!)
Of course, that little sapling couldn’t handle the growing demand for printed materials forever. By 1898, the need for a bigger and sturdier building became clear. And that’s exactly what they built—the grand structure you see today!
CE Spooner, the Selangor State Engineer, wasn’t just after fancy looks (though it is a handsome devil, wouldn’t you say?). He designed it with a hidden strength—a network of cast iron columns and trusses like sturdy bird bones. This allowed for open space, perfect for those monstrous printing presses to churn out documents and newspapers.
Take a closer look at the building’s details, folks! Spot the oriel window—that fancy bay window jutting out. And don’t miss the Flemish gable (the triangle at the top) and those garlic-shaped finials (those little toppers); they all add a touch of charm.
Fast forward through the decades, and this building has seen it all! From the Ministry of Labour in the 60s to the Postal Authority in the 70s, it’s definitely worn many hats. Then came the cultural shift in the 80s, when it became the KL Memorial Library, a treasure trove of the city’s history. Finally, it housed the KL City Gallery. However, the story doesn’t end there. With the gallery’s departure in 2024, the future use of this historic building remains an open question. Bujang will keep his ear to the ground and be sure to share any juicy details he uncovers!
Psst! Hidden History Alert!
As you meander away from the government printing press towards the KL Library (Perpustakaan Kuala Lumpur), keep your eyes peeled to the right. Tucked away, you’ll spot an Art Deco building–that’s actually the KL Children’s Library now! But back in the day, it was the Kuala Lumpur Book Club. And right next door (although it’s gone now) used to be the Selangor Recreation Club. Just a little taste of KL’s hidden history for you history buffs!
Selangor Recreation Club (SRC)
Kuala Lumpur’s social scene in the late 1800s wasn’t exactly inclusive. You had the Selangor Club, bursting with middle-class folks, and the Lake Club, shimmering with the city’s elite. Then there were those who, well, weren’t quite posh enough for either. Enter the Selangor Recreation Club (SRC), the club for the “interesting” bunch.
Imagine mechanics, engine drivers, and a sprinkle of Malayan civil servants—a motley crew united by their love of a good time. Here, they could unwind with a “stengah” (half a glass of whisky with soda, for the uninitiated) at their own bar, perfect their billiards skills, or unleash their inner Robin Hood with a game of darts.
Founded in 1897, the SRC’s first president was Dr. E.A.O. Travers. Even the building reflected their less-than-highbrow status—a humble wooden shed. Fancy? Not a chance. Fun? Absolutely!
Sadly, the original SRC clubhouse, a humble wooden shed by all accounts, met its demise in late 1999. (It was located in the bottom left corner of this image, identifiable by its octagonal roof).
KL Book Club (current building: KL Children’s Library)
Nestled behind the Selangor Club, the KL Book Club started as a private library tucked away in the backroom of the KL Town Hall, catering mainly to expats. Think of it as a secret garden, a refuge for those yearning for a good book. However, the love of reading knows no bounds! Over time, the club embraced inclusivity, welcoming bibliophiles from all walks of life.
Fast forward to 1939, and the club’s dedication to its community is etched in stone—well, brick, actually! This very building, financed through government grants and member contributions, became their permanent home. No more temporary quarters!
Interestingly, the club fiercely guarded its independence. They even said “tidak” (no) to an encyclopaedia, prioritising leisurely reading over dry reference materials. Can you imagine? A library solely dedicated to the joy of getting lost in a good story!
The tides of history turned rough during the Japanese occupation, but the KL Book Club persevered. Today, this literary haven has transformed into the beloved KL Children’s Library, nurturing a new generation of bookworms.
Bujang believes this is a story worth remembering. The KL Book Club, though transformed, reminds us of the power of reading and the importance of fostering a love of literature for all. Who knows, maybe one of those children browsing the shelves today will be Kuala Lumpur’s next great writer!
6. Victoria Fountain
Folks gather ’round, for we’re about to explore the curious tale of the Victoria Fountain, also known as the “Grand Old Lady of Fountains.”
Imagine this: a royal bath tub—oops, I meant a grand fountain—shipped all the way from England in pieces like a giant jigsaw puzzle! (It seems flat packs were a thing even back then!). They must have had the patience of saints to put it all together for Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee in 1897. Two tiers of cascading water, fancy Art Nouveau tiles, and even some grumpy-looking gargoyles guarding the base—this fountain had it all!
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