Old KL – GPO, Padang & Selangor Government Offices

Old KL – GPO, Padang & Selangor Government Offices

Categories: Bygone Days
by Manjeet Dhillon
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Categories: Bygone Days

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sarongtrails

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Old KL – Part 3

Eh, hello there! Didn’t hear you lot creep up. Been waiting here like a forgotten satay stick, lost in a daydream about the good ol’ days. You know, back when KL wasn’t a flashy metropolis but a sleepy little village.  Want to hear a tale?

Back in 1885, it was a whole different ball game. Imagine this: you’re on a rickety steam launch chugging up the Klang River from Pengkalan Batu (now Klang). Forget air-conditioned taxis; you’re surrounded by the rhythmic jingle of bullock bells as your cargo gets hauled off by these lumbering beasts. Next stop: Batu Tiga!

Here you’d find the Stephenson brothers sweating it out growing pepper, while Captain Christiansen nursed his coffee plantation. It was all jungle back then, thick and steamy. Nights were spent huddled around a campfire, hoping the tigers mistook you for something less tasty. The next morning you move along, and sometime around early afternoon you’ll see a high smoke stack in the centre of a small village known as Batu Limablas (present-day Brickfields). That smoke stack was from the now-defunct Shanghai Smelting and Mining Company. Half a mile later, you’ve hit a home run. Here’s Kuala Lumpur for the taking: mud houses thatched with attap, with their backsides over the riverbanks.

No fancy hotels, then, folks. Just a rest house with a cast of characters more colourful than a basket of bunga telur. There was Mrs. Reyne, a formidable woman with her son Spencer, and then there was John Klyne, a Malaccan of Portuguese descent, who surveyed the land and inspected mines; that’s what he did.

But hold on, Klyne wasn’t just a one-trick pony. He was instrumental in setting up the Selangor Musuem perched atop Bukit Nanas, which wasn’t quite ready yet. The real story, however, unfolds when Klyne decides to retire. Imagine this: pension in hand, he hightailed it to his freehold property on Ampang Street. But here’s the kicker—he didn’t just pack his bags and a pipe. No, sir! Klyne, in his infinite wisdom, decided the museum collection needed a “temporary home.” And where did he decide to house this menagerie of Malayan marvels? Why, his very own dining room, of course!

Klyne’s cosy dining room transformed into a bizarre menagerie. Stuffed baboons, Klyne’s prized possessions, were meticulously arranged around the walls in the most grotesque postures imaginable. Here you have one perched on a chair, hands on knees, like a well-behaved Sunday school student. Another one, the cheeky fellow, is casually crossed-legged, inspecting an imaginary durian tree. And let’s not forget the contemplative baboon, hands behind its back, lost in thought. But the pièce de résistance? Every single baboon, each frozen in its peculiar pose, had a cigar firmly clenched in its mouth. Can you imagine sitting down for a civilised dinner with a room full of cigar-chomping, furniture-sitting baboons staring you down?

And you say, what about entertainment? Forget it! Your options were limited to dodging durian skins and admiring the sampans clogging the river. Ah, the simple life…

One gharry, one dhoby who took weeks to return your clothes (mildewed, no less!), and letters thrown on a table by a grumpy clerk in his pajamas Those were the days, eh?

Shall we get on now with the Postal and Telegraph offices, that is?

7. General Post Office (GPO) / Postal and Telegraph Offices

days? In my younger days (which admittedly were a good while back), things were a tad different. Back in 1889, forget fancy buildings; your mail lived in two puny huts near the train station, just across from the parade ground. The next post office, the one embroiled in our sambal hot gossip, was a whole different breed—a two-story building on the south side of Padang! And let me tell you, the character living upstairs had more stories than the letters themselves.

SSeems the old post office down by the Padang was a real nest of shenanigans. First off, picture this: the postmaster himself, a retired seafarer, barking orders at his clerks like a salty old captain! Can you imagine the poor souls trying to sort mail with a nautical vocabulary ringing in their ears? “Belay that letter, Dollah! Hoist the mailbags to the sorting table!” And the grand finale! The upstanding Secretary to the Government himself shows up after closing time, just wanting his mail. A simple request, right? Wrong! This grumpy postmaster, probably fueled by a bit too much grog, yells down from his perch like a parrot with a bad attitude! Poor Secretary gets an earful of colourful language that would make a sailor blush! Needless to say, there was a swift change in postmaster.

Fast forward to 1907, and things got a little grander. The General Post Office (GPO) sprouted up, lookin’ all Mughal-style with its flat decorative pediments, Chattri pinnacles, and polygonal corner stair towers. But hold your horses—unlike its cousins, this one skipped the dome thing. Must’ve been a trendsetter, eh?

But all good things must come to an end. By 1985, the GPO said sayonara to its postal duties and moved to their current digs (Pejabat Pos Besar Kuala Lumpur, next to the Dayabumi building).

Speaking of stories, let’s rewind to the wild west days of mail delivery—the 1800s! Back then, the “Dak Service” (fancy name, huh?) ruled the roost. And who delivered the mail? None other than Velloo, the postrunner. This speedy fella from India (we’re talking Hikara running caste speedy!) would sprint all the way from Damansara with a single bag of mail on his head.

His grand finale? Dumping the bag on a table at Bristow’s Land Office quarters. Talk about casual! Everyone would then huddle around, sort the mail like a neighbourhood game night, and then Velloo would handle the final delivery.

  • The real fun began when you went to collect your mail. You see, Jimmy Bristow, was really the sole chief clerk in the Land Office, had a rather unique morning routine. Apart from being the unofficial postmaster of a post office that didn’t exist, he also juggled the duties of Chairman of the Sanitary Board, which was another figment of the imagination. His “sanitary” duties primarily involved keeping an eye on Dollah Sampah, the overseer of rubbish heaps (as his name rather aptly implied). This meant Jimmy’s mornings could be a bit unpredictable. One day, you might find him looking chipper as a freshly peeled rambutan, greeting you with a cheery “Good morning!” But on other days? Well, let’s just say you might find yourself face-to-face with a grumpy Bristow in his nightcap, hair a bird’s nest, and a scowl that could curdle milk.

  • Imagine waiting four whole months for a reply to your letter from back home! That’s the reality of living in Malaya during the late 19th century. Think of it like sending a message in a bottle and hoping for the best! The mail carriers of the day? Mighty steamships operated by the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company. These iron steeds wouldn’t exactly blaze a trail; the journey from Suez to Calcutta before heading east to Penang and Singapore would take a while.

    The dawn of a new era began in 1874, when the Department of Posts and Telegraph laid the first-ever telegraph line in Malaya. The very first line connected the big cheese, the British Resident in Kuala Kangsar, with his right-hand man stationed in Taiping. This might seem like a short hop by today’s standards (only about 45 kilometers! ), but back then, it was a revolutionary leap forward.

  • Third image: In 1897, before the General Post Office (GPO) was completed in 1907, you can see the Selangor Railway office (later known as the PWD office) towards the right side. This location is now occupied by the Textile Museum along what was previously known as Victory Avenue.

  • Fourth image: The rows of shops visible where the Post Office now stands were originally occupied by Chow Kit & Co. When construction of the Post Office began in 1904, Chow Kit & Co. relocated to its present building. Along Market Street, you can see the Railway Office in its original one-story form.

8. Padang / Parade Grounds (Merdeka Square)

Ah, the Padang! This very spot where we stand now was once a sea of people, all united by a single dream—Merdeka! Can you almost hear it? The electricity in the air, the joyous shouts of “Merdeka!” echoing through the streets. And the music! The glorious strains of “Negaraku” filled the air, a powerful anthem that sent shivers down your spine. Remember that feeling? The pride, the hope, the overwhelming sense of unity?

They say Jimmy Boyle’s rendition of “Kemegahan Negaraku” was legendary. A voice that soared with such passion could move mountains. Makes you wish you could rewind time and experience it all again, wouldn’t you say? The Padang might not be the same anymore, but the spirit of Merdeka lives on. A reminder of the sacrifices made, the dreams achieved, and the future we continue to build together.

  • The Padang was once an abandoned field, furrowed by Chinese vegetable gardeners who left ridges all over the ground. At one end stood the gaol, enclosed by a bamboo palisade, while at the other end, where the Anglican Church of Mary the Virgin now stands, was the original Selangor Club, known as the Spotted Dog—a wooden house on dwarf brick pillars. In front of the Padang, attap depots stored charcoal for smelting tin ore in Chinese clay furnaces. These depots were demolished to erect the Government Secretariat Office.

  • One of Jimmy Boyle’s songs that I particularly enjoy listening to is “Chendering.” You can listen to a beautiful rendition of this song by Bihzhu, a local singer. Her vocals carry this song with such depth and passion that you can feel the intensity just from her performance. (Chendering, a place in Terengganu, a coastal town along the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia)

  • There once was a bandstand, close to the Victoria Fountain. In 1894, the British government introduced a group of 64 musicians from the Philippines to establish the Selangor State Band. Among these musicians was Rufino Soliano. The Soliano family’s musical legacy endures in Malaysia, where they are known for their exceptional talent as musicians. Third picture: you can spy the bandstand at the top right corner of the Padang.

  • The first image, dating back to 1884, is one of the earliest photographs of Kuala Lumpur. In the picture, the Padang is only partially cleared, and construction is underway on what would become Jalan Raja, right in front of a row of attap huts that occupied the former Government Secretariat’s location. The road leading across the image is the route to Damansara, which, during that period, passed over Bluff Hill.

9.  Selangor Government Offices / Federal Secretariat Building (Sultan Abdul Samad Building)

Ahoy, mateys! Bujang Masa Lalu back on deck, and this time we’re diving deep into the nitty-gritty of the Selangor Government Offices! This grand dame, fondly called the “Grand Old Lady,” stands guard over the Padang like a seasoned captain. Built between 1894 and 1897, it was the first to bring the exotic flavour of Neo-Saracenic architecture to Malaya. Take a gander at that verandah—a parade of arches in all shapes and sizes, from keyhole to horseshoe—keepin’ things interesting. And don’t forget to tip your hat to those eye-catching, onion-shaped domes that gleam like jewels in the sun.

Now, you landlubbers might think a building’s just bricks and mortar, but this beauty’s got a story to tell! Just the sheer amount of materials used would make your jaw drop. We’re talking a mind-boggling four million bricks, enough to build a wall that’d make the Great Wall of China blush (well, maybe not that long, but you get the idea). And to hold it all together? A cool 2,500 barrels of cement—that’s one heck of a sticky situation! But wait, there’s more loot in the hold! They threw in a hefty dose of limescale (don’t ask me, mateys), some shiny copper that would make a pirate captain drool (5,000 pounds, no less! ), and enough steel and iron (50 tonnes) to build a small armada! Let’s not forget the 30,000 cubic feet of timber—that’s one sturdy ship, I tell ya!

This postcard from 1910 shows how the Government Offices dominated the city skyline. The Selangor Club is in the foreground. (Malaysia Traveller pic)

The original blueprint for the building was crafted by A.C. Norman, assisted by R.A.J. Bidwell, however, this design did not resonate with the vision of Charles Spooner, who oversaw public works in Malaya at the time. Under Spooner’s direction, Bidwell reimagined the structure, infusing it with architectural elements now recognised as Indo-Sarcenic. Notably, A.B. Hubback, a senior draughtsman newly arrived in the colonial administration, joined the effort, lending his expertise to various aspects, including the fixtures. While A.C. Norman’s name is immortalised on the foundation stone and his original ground plan served as a framework, the building’s final design reflects the creative interplay between Bidwell’s reworking and Hubback’s enhancements, guided by Spooner’s aesthetic sensibilities.

Fast forward to 1978, and this grand dame got a swanky makeover to house the nation’s top courts. But by 2007, the legal eagles had flown the coop, setting sail for swanky new digs in Putrajaya.

To truly appreciate its architecture, my preferred route involves a leisurely walk along the riverbanks, gradually approaching the clock tower that stands tall above you. This vantage point provides an unobstructed view of the Grand Old Lady.

  • The area where the Government Secretariat building now stands used to have two rows of shophouses. These shophouses had windows that extended across the entire width from the door to the wall on both sides. They had flaps, with one flap opening upwards and the other flap opening downwards. These flaps were supported and formed a counter for displaying merchandise and goods. These shophouses were among the earliest examples of permanent shophouses in the area.

  • Ah, the clock tower! Standing tall and proud, a silent witness to the ever-changing story of Kuala Lumpur. It’s seen it all, folks, from the quiet humdrum of daily life to the momentous roar of history unfolding. The clock tower, that stoic observer, chimed in with its solemn tolls, marking not just the hour but a pivotal moment in the nation’s story. Remember 1957, when, at the stroke of midnight on August 31st, the Union Jack gave way to the first Malayan flag, a symbol of a nation claiming its independence? But the clock tower’s not just about grand pronouncements. This marvel of engineering, crafted by the fine folks at Gillet and Johnston of Croydon (wind it 300 times a day, they said? Bujang Masa Lalu gets tired just thinking about it!), uses a clever combination of weights, pulleys, and gears to keep perfect time.

    And here’s the Kuala Lumpur clock tower, a physical manifestation of that ongoing conversation. So, the next time you hear that bell toll, remember—it’s not just marking the hour; it’s also tales of a city that’s constantly evolving.

  • Spot Jalan Ang Seng in Brickfields? There’s more to that name than meets the eye! It’s a tip of the hat to Towkay Ang Seng Mooi, the local contractor who built this icon, and several others (KL Railway Station and Hotel, Supreme Court, FMS Railway Offices). Even the streets tell tales!

  • R.A.J. Bidwell arrived in Malaya in 1893 to serve in Selangor’s Public Works Department (PWD), contributing to the design of prominent public structures, including the iconic Bangunan Sultan Abdul Samad. His tenure with the PWD was brief but impactful, he resigned in April 1895 to join Swan & McLaren, an architectural firm in Singapore. Among Bidwell’s notable contributions during his time in Singapore are the renowned Raffles Hotel, and other significant works such as Atbara House and Goodwood Park Hotel, which continue to stand as symbols of his architectural legacy.

  • Selangor Government Offices (1897) – Departmental Breakdown

    Hey there, curious bees! Ever wondered what it was like to peek inside the grand government offices of Selangor back in 1897? Well, fret no more! Bujang Masa Lalu’s been busy buzzing around the blueprints, and look what we’ve got—a honeycomb of information all laid out on a neat little table.

    Department Location
    Post Office (Public Room, Telegraph Operators’ Room, Clerks’ Office, Postmaster’s Room) Corner nearest Railway Station
    Federal Offices (Originally intended for Sanitary Board) After crossing narrow passage from Post Office
    Treasury Department (Treasurer’s Room, Assistant Treasurer’s Office, Clerks’ Office, Stamp Office, Strong Room) Next to Post Office
    Audit Department (Auditor’s Office, Clerks’ Office, Record Room) Adjoining Treasury Department
    Land Office (Collector of Land Revenue and Clerks, Strong Rooms (2)) Opposite main staircase
    Mines Department (Superintendent’s Office, Clerks’ Office, Overseers’ Office, Waiting Room, Lobby, Specimen Room) End next to the river
    Survey Department (Chief Surveyor’s Room, Drawing Office) First Floor, above Mines Department
    State Engineer’s Office First Floor
    District Engineer and Staff Ground Floor, beneath State Engineer’s Office (Clark-street side)
    Government Secretary’s Office (Private Office, Secretariat Clerks’ Room, Strong Room for Records) Clark-street side of central staircase
    Council Chamber Adjoins Government Secretary’s Office
    Superintendent of Posts and Telegraphs and Staff Southwest corner of the building
    Resident General Clark Street
    Judicial Commissioner Clark Street
    Legal Adviser Clark Street

  • Architectural Style Details of Selangor Government Offices (1897)

    Don’t get me wrong, a table can be a handy guide, but the real magic lies in letting your imagination paint a picture.

    Feature Description
    Overall Style Neo- Sarcenic
    Clock Tower Verandahs all around
    Lower Floor Large pointed horseshoe arches on solid piers
    Upper Floor Verandah Smaller horseshoe arches on delicate columns with moulded capitals and an ornamental openwork balustrade (cast in concrete)
    Internal Walls Pale duck egg green (except door/window jambs which are white)
    Verandahs White
    External Plasterwork Pale biscuit tint
    External Staircases Prominent features, all brick construction
    Best Staircases Two circular staircases on each side of the porch

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