Image source: The Encyclopedia of Malaysia

10. Chow Kit & Co

(I say now, adjusting his hat) How about we take a walk down to Clarke Street (pathway between the Grand Old Lady and the former GPO), towards the benteng? It’s been a while, and this evening, the rain’s left behind a little gift of cool air, finally doing us a favour.

But what’s this? (steps closer, shaking his head in disbelief) Disrepair? Neglect? Oh, the irony! The place where I once picked out the finest suits, the ones that made me feel like a king, is now crumbling like a forgotten biscuit. This used to be the crown jewel of the city’s finest tailors. A place where you could run your fingers over silk, inspect tweed like it was art, and walk out with your dignity firmly intact. (stares, forlorn, at the crumbling facade, as memories slowly resurface) But now? Macam mana dah jadi macam ni? How things have changed…(chuckles bitterly). Back then, telephone numbers were a simple three digits, and I daresay Chow Kit & Co. had quite a memorable digit: “111”. Rotary dial, mind you; I shan’t even bother explaining.

A building without purpose withers.  Why can’t we breathe life back into this stunning piece of history, allow its metaphorical eyelids to flutter open once more, instead of watching it silently fade into oblivion? It sits empty and weathered, with an uncertain future ahead.

11. Holland Road & Riverbank Stroll

Now, a right on Holland Road and, there it stands, the imposing seven-story Loke Yew Building, towering over the delicate Saracenic pinnacles and domes. Once a bustling hub of foreign consulates and cultural centres.

(Wipes his brow, a flicker of recognition in his eyes) Ah, look at that! The signage still reads “The Dispensary.” But back in my day, it was Maynard & Co., a quaint little pharmaceutical shop on Market Street bridge, catering mostly to Europeans. Now, between us, I suspect it wasn’t the medicines that drew in the crowd, but rather the fine selection of wine, spirits, and liqueurs. (Chuckles) You know, the kind that could warm a man’s heart quicker than any tonic.

Maynard’s was a bit of a legend, being the only European shop in Kuala Lumpur back in 1889 and the early 1890s. But come April 1894, it changed hands—sold to a chemist named D. Macreath, who wisely renamed it The Dispensary. Oh, he stocked much the same, mind you: brewed ginger beer, Tennant’s pale ale, stout, and even shandy, both the light and dark variety. And let’s not forget the Devonshire cider! Of course, he still prescribed medicine, but I daresay the beverages had a more… loyal clientele.

And what do we have here? (Pauses, pointing to another signboard) John Little & Co., circa 1906. Before they opened their grand department store on Ampang Street in 1914, they had their humble beginnings right here, in the Loke Yew Building. What a time that was—fine suits and finer spirits, all in one stroll down this very street.

And let me not forget, in the early 30s, there was even talk of a dance hall (Riviera Dance Hall) to brighten Malayan night life. Rumour was a spacious hall situated on the second floor of a building, facing the river, at the corner of Holland Road and Clarke Street. Quite the bustling hub of activity, I assure you.

But let me regale you with a memory that’ll tickle the fancy of any KLite from the late ’70s. You see, there was a charming little lane next to the Loke Yew Building where we’d head for what we fondly called “coffee by the yard.” What’s that, you ask? Allow me to enlighten you. This is “kopi lambung,” or “coffee thrown-into-the-air”—a spectacle to behold. But contrary to what you might think, the experts don’t actually throw the coffee; rather, their arm movements are akin to those of a tailor measuring out cloth. The coffee stream remains parallel to the ground, no drop spilled, like fabric cut to perfection. Hence, the English-speaking regulars dubbed it “coffee by the yard.” A delightful quirk of our city’s past, indeed. Those were simpler times, when life moved at a slower pace, and the city had a more intimate feel.

But enough about coffee! Let’s take a leisurely stroll down the riverbank, shall we? (Listens intently) Ah, can you hear that? The faint echo of a train whistle? And the shouts of rickshaw pullers, bargaining for fares. Imagine the bustling streets, once filled with bullock carts and the rhythmic clopping of horseshoes. (Squints at the path) See that glint there? Might be a lucky horseshoe lost in the hustle and bustle! quite the river this was once upon a time. No row row row your boats here, you had a medley of affairs, from bathing, washing clothes, bullock bathing, to vegetable cleaning and what not. And occasionally, one sighted baby crocodiles a few feet away.

(Continues walking, gazing at the Jamek Mosque) Ah, and there she stands – the Jamek Mosque, a beacon of faith and serenity. Even back in the day, it was a place of peace and reflection amidst the chaos of the city. A beautiful reminder of Kuala Lumpur’s rich multicultural heritage.

Hold on a minute, what do we have up there? The Dhoby Green! Those were the days, where your laundry was taken care of with an expert touch. Skilled dhobis, their arms rippling with muscle, would scrub and wash your clothes to a pristine white. Quite a sight to behold, I tell you! Though sometimes, a sock or two would go missing in the process. A small price to pay for such spotless garments, wouldn’t you say?

(Sighs contentedly) There’s something truly special about this riverside walk, wouldn’t you agree? A chance to step back in time, to feel the pulse of a bygone era. So keep your eyes peeled, and your ears open, for there’s always a story waiting to be discovered in the forgotten corners of Kuala Lumpur.