Old KL – PSt Mary’s Cathedral & Selangor Club

Old KL – PSt Mary’s Cathedral & Selangor Club

Categories: Bygone Days
by Manjeet Dhillon
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Categories: Bygone Days

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sarongtrails

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Old KL (Colonial Core)

(Winks with a knowing smile) Ah, so you’ve made it this far, have you? Impressive! But let me warn you, as we stroll into this next chapter, there’s a little twist in the tale—will you follow me down these familiar streets, or will curiosity take you off the beaten path? (Raises eyebrow) Decisions, decisions. Either way, I promise the anecdotes aren’t drying up just yet. So, lace up those shoes and keep pace – but I can assure you, the rewards of perseverance are often the sweetest.

11. St Mary’s Cathedral

(Adjusts his hat with a grin) Ah, St. Mary’s Cathedral – a true relic of 1894, built in that proper “early English Gothic style,” as they call it. Back in the day, it wasn’t this grand stone structure you see now. No, no—just a modest wooden church perched up on Bluff Road, now Bukit Aman. The congregation? A small but dedicated bunch of Anglicans, quietly gathering for worship, likely unaware that their little church would stand the test of time.

(Points towards the stained glass) Ah, and that window, the Planters Window—now, that’s a sight. Framed by the coats-of-arms of the 11 states of the Federation of Malaya, it’s a reminder of the past that lingers, even as the world marches on. So, take a moment, soak it in—this isn’t just a church; it’s a keeper of stories, much like me.

  • In 1907, the Straits Trading Company, donated a large bell to the St Mary’s Anglican Church of Kuala Lumpur, which is hidden at the back in the Women’s Auxiliary Hall.

  • If you walk in, look for the elegant pivot door.

  • The pipe organ installed in the church was built in 1895 by Henry Willis, the famous English organ maker who also made the organ for St Paul’s Cathedral in London and the original Grand Organ of the Royal Albert Hall.

12. Royal Selangor Club

(Nods toward the padang) Over there on the left, you’ll find the Royal Selangor Club—mock-Tudor style, still standing proud with its black-and-white façade facing the padang. Sure, much has changed inside, but the air of old-world charm remains, kan? Walk in, and you can almost hear the clink of glasses from the gentlemen’s bar. Ah, the good old “stengah”—whisky and soda, a drink that holds the essence of the club’s past.

Back in the day, it was just a long room, resting on dwarf brick pillars, with a solitary table in the centre and one kerusi besar—not exactly fancy. If all the chairs were taken, you’d just squat on the floor! They danced, read poetry, and played the piano while sipping on aerated water. Simpler times, perhaps, but it was all part of the club’s unique charm.

The Club’s affectionate nickname—“The Spotted Dog.” Now, as with any good story, there are two sides to this coin. On one hand, it’s said that two Dalmatians, belonging to the wife of one of the club’s founders, would sit proudly at the entrance whenever they visited. A fine sight, I’m sure! But, here’s where it gets amusing: they used to call it the “Spotted Dog” back in the day as a cheeky nod to the club’s, shall we say, eclectic membership. Though, of course, some with a dash of colonial flair might’ve had a rather different kind of “spot” in mind. The heat of the tropics does funny things to the imagination!

The Club had quite the spectacle in its heyday – gracing the club’s hallowed halls was a painting by Nik Zainal Abidin bin Nik MOhamed Salleh, a display of 16 key characters from the Mahabharata. Alas, fate had other plans. This magnificent artwork, brimming with mythological splendour, was consumed by a fire in the 1970s, now just a wistful memory in the corridors of time.

The characters, left to right: top row: Dososana, Togok, Bima, Raja Mala, Krishna and Betara Nerada: second row. An ogre, Dermawangsa, Arjuna, Hanuran; third row; Semar Raden Samba. Sangkula, Sang Dewa, Galah, Turas, Katol Katja. Image source: https://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/

  • There once was a mural painted in gold lacquer against an ivory base, by Kathleen Clark. It told a tale of bygone days in the early 1890s “baju tutop, and the pony trap, of indoor games by kerosene lamplight, of planters of cinchona, coffee and pepper, of women who wore too many clothes, and of home leave once in six years, of whisky drunk at “tiffin” because beer was “too bilious for ordinary occasions.”, of punkahs and flickering kerosene lamps.” Alas, the mural went up in flames when the club caught fire. 

  • The Royal Selangor Club was birthplace of the Hash House Harriers

  • Somerset Maugham was said to have his play “The Letter” based on the Proudlock scandal he overheard at the club.

Plot Twist: Barrack Road

Architecture enthusiasts, a detour awaits! Two more stunning buildings, the former Chow Kit Mansion and the former Anglo Oriental Building, line what was once Barrack Road. Ready to explore? Continue from St. Mary’s Cathedral (on your right) until you reach a junction. Here, beneath the overhead bridge, cross towards the building known as Bank Rakyat. On your left, you’ll find a hidden gem – a yellow building waiting to be discovered. 

Prefer to keep moving? No worries! Continue walking back towards Jalan Raja (with the church on your left and the club on your right).

Image source: The Legacy and Heritage of Loke Chow Kit by Junn Ng and Symn Ch’ng

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