Psst! Don’t blink!

Not so quickly now! Standing across from the Municipal Office, where you see the garden and countdown clock water feature, well, right under your nose (almost!), there used to be two key structures. While the original buildings are no longer present, the location itself holds a historical significance. It reveals the evolving social fabric of Kuala Lumpur, with each chapter, reflecting the changing demographics and social needs of the city.

Selangor Raja School (Malay Raja School)

Just across the road from the Countdown Clock, perched by the Gombak River bridge, you’ll find a slice of Kuala Lumpur’s forgotten academic past: the erstwhile Malay Raja School. Founded in December 1890, this place predates the Victoria Institution and was as posh as a school could get back then.

Originally set up in a government-owned building where the Countdown Clock now stands (which, by the way, used to boast a pitcher-plant fountain that might have made the place look like a botanical garden), the Raja School was a short-lived but intriguing experiment in education. The idea was simple yet grand: to groom the sons of Selangor’s Rajas and Chiefs, harnessing their “hereditary influence” for state benefits. Quite the royal ambition!

Reverend Frank William Haines, an Oxford gent, was the school’s inaugural “fit person”—a title so grand it sounds like it should come with a crown. Despite his Anglican leanings and a notable lack of Malay language skills, he was deemed just the chap to teach and inspect the young Rajas.

The Raja School, initially aiming to prep these lads for future government roles, ended up focusing more on instilling discipline and etiquette. Imagine a classroom with English, Arithmetic, and Geography mixed with drill sessions and the promise of horsemanship—though the latter was more talk than trot.

With sixteen students from various districts, all barely into their teens, and most with only a smattering of previous education, the Raja School was a high-profile but fleeting experiment. The young Rajas were provided living allowances and accommodation choices, ranging from the Istana to private homes, making for a fascinating slice of Kuala Lumpur life.

Interestingly, only six of them had previously attended a Malay Vernacular School. (The first class consisted of the Ràja Muda of Selangor, Raja Sulaiman, Raja Juma’atbin Raja Bot, Raja Yusof bin Raja Yacob, Raja Osman bin Raja Hassan, Raja Itam bin Raja Abdul Majid, Raja Ibrahimbin Raja Yahya, Raja Ketchee and Raja Jaffarbin Raja Mahmud, Ahmad bin Shaykh Mohamed Ali, Abdul Aziz bin Shaykh Abdul Mohit, and Tambi Ahmad bin Tambi Zainal)

Despite its grand aspirations, the Raja School’s ambitions were somewhat dashed. The closure in 1894, due to low enrolment and the cost of keeping the place running, saw its students transferred to the Victoria Institution’s temporary site. However, the legacy endured, inspiring figures like Raja Jaffar, who became a Penghulu and championed education, and the Raja Muda, who launched a major vernacular school in Bandar, which became the largest Malay vernacular school in the district of Kuala Langat.

And just as the Raja School bowed out, the Gombak Lane Malay School (read more here), stepped up to fill the gap, offering education to a broader slice of the Malay community. So, as you take in the view across the road, remember: Kuala Lumpur’s streets are like pages in an, ever-unfolding novel—each turn and corner reveals another chapter of its vibrant history.(image: look for the red arrow to left of image for location of Selangor Raja School)

Reference: The Selangor Raja School by Rex Stevenson from Journal of the Malaysian Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society, Vol. 41, No. 1 (213) (July, 1968), pp. 183-192

Anzac Club, later Victory Canteen and Restoran Rakyat

Standing sentinel beside the hallowed grounds of the old Malay Raja School, another historical gem came into play in 1941—the KL Anzac Club. This wasn’t just any building; it was the beating heart of Kuala Lumpur’s ANZAC community, offering a home-away-from-home for Aussies and Kiwis alike.

But as history likes to do, it moved on. After World War II, the KL Anzac Club gracefully transformed into the Victory Canteen, a venue that continued the tradition of camaraderie and conviviality. It wasn’t just a canteen; it became the go-to hangout for sports clubs and social gatherings, a place where wartime memories mingled with post-war cheer. The Victory Canteen was the toast of the town until it closed its doors in 1960.

Yet, the building was far from finished with its social ambitions. Before long, it reinvented itself as Restaurant Rakyat, embracing its role as a staple of the local community. And so, this building’s tale spun a new chapter in Kuala Lumpur’s social saga, from wartime camaraderie to local favourite, always with a nod to its storied past.

16. FMS Survey Office (later Sessions and Magistrate courts)

This building right here has been in a long-term relationship with cobwebs, but perhaps it’s time for a change. Imagine transforming it into a vibrant cultural centre—something that doesn’t just sit there gathering dust. After all, Sarawak managed to turn its old court house into a lively hub. Maybe it’s time we did the same and gave this relic a reason to wake up from its dusty slumber.

Now, shifting our gaze, the very last building on your right is a stately two-storey colonnaded gem. Constructed in 1910, it was originally the Survey Office for the Federated Malay States (FMS). Don’t miss those unique cinque-foil arches—truly a marvel of the era.

You might find it a bit tricky to distinguish where this building ends and the Municipality office begins. But now, at the junction ahead, is Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman (formerly Batu Road) and you’re turning right onto Jalan Tun Perak (formerly Java Street / Mountbatten Road). Heads up, there’s another plot twist lurking around the corner.