Strolling Along Jalan Tun Perak

Strolling Along Jalan Tun Perak

Categories: Bygone Days
by Manjeet Dhillon
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Categories: Bygone Days

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sarongtrails

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Old KL (Colonial Core)

Mountbatten Road, now there’s a grand stretch! It’s as if the road decided to have a little adventure of its own, stretching far and wide. Buckle up, because we’ve got quite journey ahead on this mighty mile!

17. P H Hendry

Across the road, you’ll see a tile glazed facade and signage that says “P H Hendry”—appointed the Royal Jeweller to the states of Negeri Sembilan, Selangor, and Kelantan in the 20s. In the early days, the craftsmen and stonecarvers came from Sri Lanka. Their roots go back to PH Dines Hamy, who opened Ceylon Bakery on Jalan Melayu (Malay Street). His son, PH Hendry, saw potential beyond bread and pastries, launching a jewellery business in a corner of the bakery in 1902. By the 1920s, he relocated his operations to Jalan TAR (Batu Road), eventually establishing a permanent site nearby. More on this intriguing history when we explore Batu Road later.

17. Malay Mail Office

As you approach this charming square, let your eyes be drawn to the palm-fringed white canopy that stretches out like a welcoming embrace, providing precious respite from the scorching sun or the occasional downpour.

Once upon a time, this very square was graced by a row of shophouses that hosted none other than the Malay Mail. Founded back in 1896 by J.H.M. Robson—who decided government tax collecting wasn’t quite his calling—this newspaper has been a cornerstone of Kuala Lumpur’s media landscape. Robson, a man with a flair for the written word, wasn’t new to the game; he’d previously dipped his toes into journalism with the ill-fated Selangor Journal, launched by John Russell and short-lived from 1892 to 1897.

  • In one of Robson’s writings from 1889, he described Kuala Lumpur as follows: “the only European shop was Maynard’s near the present Market Street Bridge. Medicine, provisions, and drinks were sold there. The place was a rendezvous for Europeans.”

  • Such was Robson’s influence that areas like Robson Heights and Jalan Robson, located in the upscale Seputeh neighbourhood of present-day Kuala Lumpur, were named in his honour.

  • Masjid Jamek was constructed behind the Malay Mail office two years later, with the FMS Survey offices added next door three years on.

In the later years, after the Malay Mail vacated, the tenants underwent a transformation as well. One prominent business was Ubaidullah & Co (first image below). During the days when travel by ship was the preferred route between India and Malaysia, Ubaidullah & Co. was the go-to place for booking your passage. However, ship travel soon became a relic of the past after the vessel M.V. Chidambaram (see image on left) was damaged in a fire, marking the end of an era.

Second image (below): While the Malay Mail moved out, the building didn’t just sit there gathering dust. It embraced a new chapter, bustling with fresh tenants. Hock Lee Supermarket once held court here, proudly displaying its famous mascot signage to lure in shoppers with promises of good deals and great finds.

Later, Chung Khiaw Bank took over, and the building underwent a stylish makeover. The facade was given a modern facelift, featuring a sleek grilled steel design that added a contemporary edge to its historic charm.

Third image (below):a rather unassuming mascot of the Hock Lee supermarket.

Wisma Kraftangan

Remember, our conversation about the Malay Handicraft Society in, well it later morphises into Wisma Kraftangan, right there about where you see the white shades. It was also home to the Bar Council. Now if you look at the pavement beneath the shades, there’s a unmistakable batik pattern, lending a nod to the presence of the now gone Wisma Kraftangan.

First image: Wisma Kraftangan

Second image: Wisma Kraftangan and Malay Mail row being demolished in 2014

Robinsons

United Asian Bank (now CIMB) next to Robinsons (now OCBC).

Mountbatten Road was dotted with landmarks, and among them stood Robinsons & Co (from Singapore), the grand dame of department stores. Imagine a retail utopia where every conceivable whim and fancy was catered to—haberdashery for the sartorially inclined, millinery for those who fancied a fancy hat, home furnishings that would make even the most discerning decorator swoon, and bicycles for those who preferred their transport to be of the two-wheeled variety. Oh, and let’s not forget the photographic apparatus for capturing your most memorable moments, and sporting equipment for the active soul.

In September 1928, Robinsons decided to grace Kuala Lumpur with its presence, setting up shop in what could only be described as a shopping extravaganza. A veritable cornucopia of consumer delight, and, dare I say, a temple of taste and opulence.

So, there you have it—Robinsons, where you could buy almost anything your heart desired, along with a quiet afternoon at Jade Room.

Whiteway, Laidlaw & Co

Quite epitome of retail sophistication in its day, Whiteway spread its elegant wings across Calcutta and other cities in India, along with branches right here in KL, Singapore, and Shanghai.

And though it graced us with its presence until 1962, its legacy remains. Quite the shopping extravaganza on one street, wouldn’t you say?

Whiteaway Laidlaw & Co. building, circa 1922, with the Robinsons & Co. building opening in 1928. Take note of the Gombak Lane Electric Power Station, and did you spot the lamp post near the bullock cart? I’ve heard from a Facebook group that it’s an early arc lamp—so bright it was eventually banned! I wonder if TNB still has this relic in their collection. About Arc lamps: https://edisontechcenter.org/ArcLamps.html

18. Jamek Mosque (Masjid Jamek / Masjid Sultan Abdul Sulaiman)

As you saunter past the canopy, you’ll eventually stumble upon the entrance of the Jamek Mosque, an old-timer with plenty of stories to tell. Perched at the intersection of the Klang and Gombak rivers, this architectural marvel has been charming visitors since 1909.

Picture this: onion-shaped domes that gleam like a moonlit night, pink and white banded minarets that stand as if they’re guarding secrets of yesteryear, and the brick and plasterwork that’s a feast for the eyes.

And let’s not forget those swivel windows—oh, the architectural wizardry of it all! If you can’t waltz inside, a leisurely stroll along the embankment will give you a front-row seat to this mosque’s timeless allure.

A Barkath Stores van driving along Mountbatten Street, with Masjid Jamek alongsidet. But what’s that building to the right of Masjid Jamek? (Image source: UWM Libraries’ Digital Collections

  • The Jamek Mosque, standing proudly at the confluence of rivers, once served as a resting place for the early migrants – the Achenese community (Mandailing) of Kampung Rawa. (see 3rd image below for a map, where this triangular tract ofl and is marked as “Malay burial ground”)

  • The land where Masjid Jamek stands today is said to have once belonged to a rice trader from Terengganu named Che’ Soh, who generously donated the parcel for its construction.

18. Oriental Building

Stand at the corner and let your eyes feast on the faded grandeur of the Oriental Building, a relic from the 1930s Art Deco extravaganza. Designed by the illustrious A.O. Coltman, this edifice was meant to curve around the road with all the grace of a ballroom dancer. The central facade? Oh, it’s a showstopper, flanked by two tower-like pylons that whisper of a time when buildings were statements of monumentality.

Take a moment to appreciate the plasterwork on the main panel – an array of interlocking disks framed by a clean white line. Those tall, elegant windows don’t just stand there; they alternate with vertical bands and horizontal strips, creating a rhythm that would make a metronome blush.

Imagine the buzz of energy that once crackled through these walls when it was Radio Malaya’s stage, broadcasting voices and stories that enthralled a nation. Now, the Oriental Building, though a tad worse for wear, stands as a solemn witness to its illustrious past. Ah, the echoes of yesteryears!

  • Radio Malaya

    It all began on 1st April 1946, when the crackling airwaves of the Radio Broadcasting Department in Singapore echoed across the nation. The familiar ‘This is the British Military Administration of Malaya…’ was laid to rest, replaced with the far more unifying call, ‘This is Radio Malaya…’. It wasn’t just a change of words; it marked the beginning of a truly united Malayan voice.

    From its early days at the Oriental Building in 1951 to finding a permanent home on the fifth and sixth floors of Federal House in 1956, Radio Malaya was more than just news—it was the pulse of the people. Who could forget the first Pertandingan Bintang Radio in 1952, where a young P. Ramlee swept the stage, leaving R. Azmi and SM Salim in his wake? Talent, it seemed, flowed as freely as the news broadcasts.

    But perhaps the most memorable moment came on the night of 30th August 1957. As the Union Jack was lowered at the Selangor Club Padang, Radio Malaya brought that historic moment live to Malayans nationwide. And the next day, with Hashim Amir Hamzah and Dom Madzi reporting live from Stadium Merdeka, Tunku Abdul Rahman’s proclamation of Merdeka thundered through every radio set, sending waves of joy across the nation.

    Radio Malaya’s chapter came to a close on 16th September 1963, as the federation expanded to include Sabah, Sarawak, and Singapore. From that day, it was ‘This is Radio Malaysia…’, signalling not just a new broadcast, but a new era.”

Just a smidgen further up this stretch of road, you’ll find two buildings that are definitely worth a mention. Give me a moment, and I might even toss in a few more as my memory serves me.

Chan Wing Building

As I strolled down Mountbatten Road, one building that truly caught my eye was the Chan Wing Building.

  • Chan Wing, a true pioneer of Malaya, struck it rich with the Hong Fatt Mining Company, which he co-founded. This wasn’t just any mining operation; it grew to be the world’s largest open-cast tin mine, reshaping the area into what we now know as The Mines Resort City.
  • Not stopping there, Chan Wing also played a pivotal role in founding Kwong Yik Bank in 1913 and Lee Wah Bank in 1931.

And let’s not overlook the house he built in 1929 for his ever-expanding family—a sprawling residence to accommodate his eight wives and over twenty children. The house itself has witnessed a fascinating parade of historical shifts in Kuala Lumpur:

    • 1942: It became the residence of the Japanese Governor of Selangor.
    • 1945: British military officers took over, and it was known as Taylor House.
    • 1950: The home of Sultan Hisamuddin, the Sultan of Selangor.
    • 1957: It served as the Istana Negara, the National Palace.
    • Now: It stands as the Royal Museum.

Lee Yan Lian Building

Built in 1945, this structure was the tallest in KL at 242 feet—quite the sky-high achievement for its time!

The skyline of Kuala Lumpur in the early 1970s captures a fascinating moment in the city’s evolution. Dominating the centre of the scene is the Lee Yan Lian Building. Below, the verdant hill at the bottom of the photo is where the Menara Maybank now rises. At the top of the image, you’ll spot the iconic Sultan Abdul Samad Building, while the Federal House makes its presence known in the top left corner.

Now, brace yourself for the second plot twist in our mile-long odyssey. As we veer onto Malay Street and Dickson Road—where, you ask? Ah, curiosity might just be the cat that gets the last laugh here.

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