Plot Twist I: Barrack Road

Plot Twist I: Barrack Road

Categories: Bygone Days
by Manjeet Dhillon
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Categories: Bygone Days

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sarongtrails

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Old KL (Colonial Core)

Plot Twist: Barrack Road

Ah, so you’ve decided to press on, eh? Bold move! Well, brace yourself for a little twist in the tale—Barrack Road holds a surprise or two. Let’s go!

13. Barrack Road: Chow Kit Mansion (Rumah Tangsi)

Now we’re stepping into one of KL’s finest gems—the Loke Chow Kit Mansion. This beauty has a century’s worth of stories locked within those striking yellow walls. Named after the man himself, Loke Chow Kit, whose name still echoes through a district in KL, this mansion isn’t just a relic—it’s a slice of history. If you’ve got an eye for photography, that spacious courtyard and those high ceilings will have you clicking away in no time.

But here’s where it gets interesting: this grand residence didn’t stay just a mansion for long. In 1908, a group of Europeans (G.S. Delmar Morgan, D.O. Russell, and H.C. Woodroffe) saw its potential and leased it from Chow Kit. What did they do? Turned it into the Empire Hotel, of course! Opened on New Year’s Eve, no less. Fast forward to 1919, and it got a bit of a rebranding—became the Peninsular Hotel under the ownership of Alan Loke, son of the legendary Loke Yew.

Then came the war, and with it, the hotel’s trajectory took a turn: the Japanese military took over, turning it a Japanese Military Hotel during the occupation. Post-war, it transformed again, becoming the Headquarters Mess for the Second Guards Brigade.

After its heyday, the Peninsular Hotel eventually closed its doors in the early 1970s. But the building wasn’t left to fade into obscurity. Today, it’s gone through yet another revival—no longer just an old hotel, but a lively cultural space known as Rumah Tangsi. Quite the journey, wouldn’t you say?

  • Finders keepers: Can you spot a manhole cover with “KLM” etched on it? “KLM” stands for Kuala Lumpur Municipality, dating back to the early days of City Hall.

  • Jalan Tangsi translates literally to “Barrack Road”. This name reflects the area’s history, as police barracks and armoury buildings were located here during the colonial era.

  • The gate in front of the tourism office, is by Scottish ironwork foundry: Walter Macfarlane & Co. Another fine example is at Kapitan Chung Keng Kwee’s former resident in Georgetown, Penang.

  • Chow Kit’s country home in KL was along Millionaires Road (present day Jalan Ampang). His property was around the vicinity of the Petronas Twin Towers, just where the fountains is on the outside. He named it Desswood and alongside he built Birkhall for his brother and Whitehall for other Loke family members. (see map, sourced fromThe Legacy and Heritage of Loke Chow Kit by Junn Ng and Symn Ch’ng).

14. Barrack Road: Anglo Oriental Building (Wisma Ekran)

A striking relic of British Malaya’s booming tin industry. Completed in 1937, its foundations were laid, quite literally, on tin and rubber—the two golden commodities of the era. As the headquarters for Anglo-Oriental (Malaya) Ltd., this building was the nerve centre of a company that managed numerous tin mines across Malaya, making it a monument to the country’s economic might back in the day.

And just look at that! Pure Art Deco glory. From its asymmetrical wings to the grand curved corner entrance, flanked by pylons capped with flagpoles—this building has flair to spare. Notice the elegant concrete canopy that coolly drapes over the entrance, offering shade and style in equal measure. Oh, and don’t miss the intricate grooves circling the building between the colonnade and windows. It’s the little details that truly make this façade pop—crafted in Shanghai plaster, no less, for that extra touch of class. You can’t help but marvel at its bold yet refined charm, a true gem of architectural history in the heart of KL.

  • The Avalokiteshavara in National Museum was found at one of the Anglo Oriental mining sites in Perak.

14. Barrack Road: F.M.S. Hotel (Selangor Club Chambers)

The F.M.S. Hotel—Kuala Lumpur’s own time capsule. Born in 1895, this gem once rubbed shoulders with the Empire Hotel (later the Peninsula) and held court behind the mighty Selangor Club. Spearheaded by none other than Gustav August Ketschker—who wasn’t just running a hotel but also keeping folks well-dosed at the Federal Dispensary—the F.M.S. quickly became a sanctuary for the travelling souls of its time.

But KL, as always, has a habit of reinventing itself. After 1918, the F.M.S. shed its original name, transforming into the no-nonsense “Rest House,” followed by the dignified “Selangor Club Chambers,” and ultimately the playful “Hash House.” Like KL itself, the building morphed and adapted, its walls whispering tales of old and new.

But here’s the kicker—just when you thought it might stand the test of time, poof! Like dust in the wind, the F.M.S. Hotel was wiped off the map to make way for Jalan Kinabalu. A piece of history bulldozed for progress, leaving nothing but stories for the streets to tell.

  • The F.M.S. Hotel may be gone, with a later iteration even appearing under the name “Grand Oriental Hotel”,  with sole owner listed as S M Martin.

  • Ketschker’s entrepreneurial spirit extended beyond the F.M.S. Hotel. He also held the lease for the “old rest house,” a separate establishment with a long and colourful history. Following Monsieur Sabatier, a string of interesting characters managed this establishment: George Newman, a retired Station Master, Mrs. Schmidt (later Mrs. Stapp), and finally the enigmatic “Daddy” Sarre. Each contributed to its continued success. The “old rest house” was later incorporated into the Selangor Club’s “Scheme Sector Chambers”.
  • Map details:

    1. Former horse stable of Loke Hall

    2. Empire Hotel (former Loke Hall Mansion)

    3. Empire Hotel (former townhouses of Loke Chow Kit)

    4. The Empire flat (part of Empire Hotel)

    5. Selangor Club Rest House

    6. Selangor Club Chambers (F.M. S Hotel, later renamed Gran Oriental Hotel)

Retrace your steps back towards the Padang, ensuring that St. Mary’s Cathedral remains on your left. As you reach Jalan Raja, cross the road at the pedestrian crossing. After crossing, take a left (you will be towards Gombak Bridge) for your next stop.

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