Unveiling Old KL
Unveiling Old KL
by Manjeet Dhillon
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sarongtrails
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A 17 Part Series
Curious about Kuala Lumpur’s forgotten past? Join me on a one-of-a-kind self-guided trail through the city’s colonial heart, where history breathes life.
As you stroll through these historic buildings, our narrative provides insightful tales of the past and a glimpse into what once was, through a collection of old photos.
Meet your guide, Bujang Masa Lalu – “Man of the Past” in Malay. Don’t let the name fool you, he’s no stuffy professor. Bujang has a knack for finding himself smack dab in the middle of fascinating historical periods. And let’s just say he enjoys unearthing the quirky details official records tend to overlook.
Think of him as history’s gossip columnist. He’ll point out the curious fashions, the unexpected encounters, and the behind-the-scenes chatter that brings the past to life. So, ready to ditch the present and dive into Kuala Lumpur’s bygone era?
A trail map is included below, select the “Read” button for each part, to get this time travel adventure started! Each part revealed every Sunday starting 2 June 2024.
Note: All images used on this blog are in accordance with fair use copyright guidelines, or educational and informational purposes. I strive to attribute images to their original creators whenever possible. If you are the copyright holder of any image and believe its use here violates your copyright, please contact me so we can remove the image or obtain proper permission.
Part 1
Welcome, time travellers! Buckle up, because we’re blasting back to 1857 Kuala Lumpur, a far cry from the bustling metropolis you know today. Imagine this: a dense jungle where the Klang and Gombak Rivers meet, the only skyscrapers being giant trees.
Now, history books might tell you about 87 weary miners arriving by boat. But what they don’t mention is the bewildered look on the faces of the local folks. Can you blame them? Here they are, living their quiet village life, when suddenly, a flotilla of strangers rocks up.
Ah, the Railway Arches. Not exactly the architectural marvel you were expecting, eh? Think more “storage unit” and less “Taj Mahal.” But hey, these arches hold the echoes of a bygone era, when tin was king and the only traffic jams involved rickety ginriksha’s.
Now this building! Look at it, all dressed up in its salmon and white stripes. Quite the fancy number for what used to be a humble railway office in 1895. Guess those trains brought in a bit more cash than they expected! They even demolished the old one-story building to make way for this beauty. Talk about an upgrade! Now it houses the Textile Museum, which is a far cry from train schedules and grumpy conductors, wouldn’t you say?
Part 2
Phew, this Kuala Lumpur heat is enough to make a time traveller sweat! But hey, let’s not let a little humidity stop us from exploring some fascinating history. Look at this building next door – the former Chartered Bank. Fancy, right? Back then, it was the bee’s knees, a symbol of Kuala Lumpur’s rise to prominence. Now, it just sits there, collecting dust. (grumbles) What a waste!
Speaking of neglect, check out this sad sight. The old government printing office looks like it’s given up the fight. Empty windows stare out like vacant eyes, a real testament to our city’s, shall we say, “selective” memory. Used to be a bustling hub for printing newspapers and whatnot. Now? Just another forgotten relic. (shakes head) Makes you wonder what the future holds for some of these historical gems.
(squints) Hold on, what’s that over there? Looks like an Art Deco building… oh, it’s the KL Children’s Library now. A rather sombre grey. But back in the day, it was the Kuala Lumpur Book Club! Seems like this area used to be quite the social hub. There was even a Selangor Recreation Club for the “interesting bunch,” you know, mechanics, engine drivers, folks who weren’t quite posh enough for the fancy clubs. Sounds like they had a good time though, with billiards, darts, and a good “stengah” to unwind. Shame the original clubhouse is gone, but hey, at least the stories live on!
Ah, at least the Victoria Fountain seems to be holding up well. “Grand Old Lady of Fountains,” they call her. Shipped all the way from England, a real symbol of… well, British rule, I suppose. (mutters under breath), replete with gargoyles but I say now, it’s missing some parts. But hey, at least it’s pretty!
Part 3
(Fans himself dramatically with a map)
Eh, kawan-kawan (friends)! Bujang Masa Lalu here, your guide to the quirky corners of KL’s history. Ah, the former GPO! A grand old building, wouldn’t you say? Not your typical Mughal dome affair, mind you. This one had a fancy rooftop with all sorts of doodads – chattri thingamajigs and polygonal stair towers. Quite the head-turner in 1907, I’m sure. Home to a couple of quirky characters – Velloo, our OG mail runner and poor old Bristow.
Phew, this sun is a scorcher! Feels like I could fry an egg on this Padang. Speaking of the Padang, isn’t this where they used to hold cricket matches? (peers intently at some imaginary players) Oh, cracking shot there, chap! Though judging by that fellow’s fielding position, he looks more suited to chasing butterflies than a rogue cricket ball. (chuckles) Amateurs, I tell you!
But hey, at least they’re keeping the tradition alive. Back in the day, this place was buzzing with activity – cricket matches, hawker stalls selling the most delicious satay… a far cry from the gentrified shophouses that scatter the city these days.
Now, can you just picture this: A crisp evening breeze blowing through the trees, the gentle gurgle of the Victoria Fountain in the background, and the most delightful music gracing our ears. There it once stood, the Selangor bandstand. Now, I wasn’t one for fancy soirees myself, but even a commoner like me couldn’t resist stopping by occasionally. The music would drift across the square, waltzes and concertos that would make you want to twirl around like those folks in the old paintings. Bygone days, indeed.
(Notices the grand Sultan Abdul Samad Building)
There she is – the Grand Old Lady herself! Still as stunning as ever, even after all these years. They sure don’t build them like this anymore. Remember when the booming cannon used to be the town crier? Thank goodness for the clock tower. Simpler times, I tell you. Simpler times.
Well, that’s all the time we have for today, folks! Until next time, let’s keep history alive, quirks and all!
Part 4
(Wipes sweat from his brow with a flourish) Ah, this Kuala Lumpur humidity! Enough to make a man miss the cool comfort of a bygone era. But a gentleman must persevere! (Looks around) Now, where were we? Ah yes, the grand Sultan Abdul Samad Building. A true marvel, wouldn’t you agree? Just imagine the posh soirees they used to hold here.
(Pats his pockets thoughtfully) Speaking of soirees, I do believe I need to spruce myself up a bit. A fellow can’t attend a club dinner show in just any old attire, now can he? (Gestures towards Chow Kit & Co.) Ah, Chow Kit & Co. used to be the place to go for the finest garments. Imported suits, top hats, the whole shebang. I still remember the sensation of running my fingers across the soft fabric, meticulously choosing the perfect outfit. (Sighs) A far cry from the… ahem… “modern” shops we have these days.
(Starts walking along the riverbank, dabbing his brow with the handkerchief)
But enough about fashion! Let’s take a leisurely stroll down the riverbank, shall we? The cool breeze off the water is a welcome respite from this relentless sun. (Listens intently) Ah, can you hear that? The faint echo of a train whistle? And the shouts of rickshaw pullers, bargaining for fares. Imagine the bustling streets, filled with bullock carts and the rhythmic clopping of horseshoes. (Squints at the path) See that glint there? Might be a lucky horseshoe someone lost in the hustle and bustle!
Hold on a minute, what do we have here? the Dhoby Green! Those were the days, where your laundry was taken care of with an expert touch. Skilled dhobis, their arms rippling with muscle, would scrub and wash your clothes to a pristine white. Quite a sight to behold, I tell you! (Chuckles) Though sometimes, a sock or two would go missing in the process. A small price to pay for such spotless garments, wouldn’t you say?
(Continues walking, gazing at the Jamek Mosque)
Ah, and there she stands – the Jamek Mosque, a beacon of faith and serenity. Even back in the day, it was a place of peace and reflection amidst the chaos of the city. A beautiful reminder of Kuala Lumpur’s rich multicultural heritage.
(Sighs contentedly) There’s something truly special about this riverside walk, wouldn’t you agree? A chance to step back in time, to feel the pulse of a bygone era. So keep your eyes peeled, and your ears open, for there’s always a story waiting to be discovered in the forgotten corners of Kuala Lumpur.
Part 5
Now this is a beauty! St. Mary’s Cathedral, a charming little church that’s seen its fair share of history. Back then, it was a gathering place for the Anglican community, a quiet haven amidst the city’s hustle and bustle. Ah, the Planters Window. Quite the sight, wouldn’t you say? Though I wonder if it captured the whole story… the lives of the people who toiled on those plantations, not just the coats of arms of some fancy states. (Shakes head) History can be a funny thing, selective in what it remembers.
(Chuckles and continues walking towards the Royal Selangor Club)
Ah, now this is more like it! The Royal Selangor Club. A grand old institution, steeped in history and… well, let’s just say certain traditions. (Rolls his eyes playfully) They used to call it the “Spotted Dog” back in the day, can you believe it? Apparently, a reference to the club’s diverse membership. Though some folks with a touch of… shall we say… colonial bias might have preferred a different kind of “spot” altogether. (Shakes his head) Heatstroke does strange things to the mind, I tell you!
(Leans in conspiratorially) Word on the street is, this very club is where Somerset Maugham overheard the juicy gossip that inspired his famous play, “The Letter.” Quite the scandalous affair, from what I hear. Though knowing those chaps, it probably involved a misplaced monocle or a crumpet with the wrong shade of parasol. (Winks) But hey, that’s the beauty of history, isn’t it? Full of little secrets and larger-than-life characters.
Plot Twist: Barrack Road
(Stops in his tracks, a sly smile playing on his lips) Well, well, well, what do we have here? A little detour for architecture enthusiasts, you say? Speaking of which, I seem to recall a rather grand house owned by the illustrious Loke Chow Kit somewhere around here… (Scratches his chin thoughtfully) Yes, yes, Barrack Road! That’s the ticket! Now where did I put that map…
(Starts walking towards Barrack Road) They used to call this area Barrack Road, back in the day. Makes sense, considering the police barracks that used to be here. Not exactly the most glamorous neighbourhood, but it certainly had its own character.
(Notices something on the ground) Hold on a minute, what’s this? A manhole cover with “KLM” etched on it? Kuala Lumpur Municipality, eh? Must be a relic from the early days of city hall. Fascinating how these little details transport you back in time, don’t you think?
Part 6
(Stands gazing at the Supreme Court building) Hmm, the Supreme Court. Seen a fair share of drama unfold within these walls, I tell you. Remember the Proudlock case? Quite the scandal, that one. Crowds packed the streets, buzzing with anticipation for the latest verdict. (Chuckles) Though half of them probably didn’t understand a word of the legal jargon being thrown around!
(Shakes his head and looks around thoughtfully) Speaking of crowds, this whole area used to be a lot more lively. The Town Hall Theatre, bustling with activity. Petition writers camped out by the porch, their typewriters clacking away. Quite a sight it was. (Sighs) Progress, they call it. But sometimes, I can’t help but feel a twinge of nostalgia for the simpler times.
(Turns his attention to the countdown clock across the street)
Countdown clock, eh? Fancy that. Wonder what grand event they’re gearing up for this time? Back in the day, there wasn’t a need for such things. Life moved at a slower pace. The Selangor Raja School stood proudly over there, educating the next generation. The ANZAC Club, a hub for the local expat community. (Smiles wistfully) Those were the days.
(Bujang Masa Lalu peers closely at a building)
Now hold on a minute, folks! Before we turn that corner, see that long fella with all the fancy columns, that used to be the Survey Office back in the day! Fancy that, folks, mapping out the whole Federated Malay States right here in Kuala Lumpur. Imagine all the maps and charts they must have had in there! Alright, folks, that’s all for this grand building. Time to keep moving!
Looks like we’ve reached a crossroads here. Straight ahead takes us down what used to be Batu Road, and a sharp right puts us on the path of old Java Street, now known as Jalan Tun Perak. Decisions, decisions! But wherever we go next, you can bet there’ll be more history waiting around the corner. Until then, Bujang Masa Lalu signing off!
Part 7
(Pats his pockets and adjusts his walking stick) Hmm, time to stretch these old legs a bit further. (Looks down the street) Ah, Mountbatten Road! Now that’s a name that brings back memories. Used to be the finest shopping street in all of Kuala Lumpur. Robinson’s, Whiteaway Laidlaw, Gian Singh and Co. – all the top establishments, offering the most exquisite garments. (Runs a hand over his impeccably tailored suit) Quality fabrics, impeccable tailoring, styles that would make you stand out from the crowd. Not like this… ahem… “fast fashion” nonsense they have these days. Clothes that look like they had a past life as a curtain! (Scoffs)
(Shakes his head and continues walking)
In those days, shopping was an experience. You’d take your time, browse the latest collections, and perhaps even have a cup of tea and a slice of cake at the bakery afterwards. A gentleman wouldn’t dream of rushing through such an important task! (Chuckles) Of course, things were a bit slower back then. But there was a certain charm to it, wouldn’t you agree? A sense of occasion, a respect for quality craftsmanship.
(Stops for a moment and gazes down the street, a wistful look in his eyes)
I suppose progress marches on, as they say. But sometimes, I can’t help but wonder if we’ve lost something along the way. A sense of style, perhaps. An appreciation for the finer things in life. (Sighs) Ah well, a man can dream, can’t he? (Continues walking, his cane tapping a steady rhythm on the sidewalk).
Part 8
(Adjusts his spectacles and approaches the palm-fringed canopy) Ah, shade! A true blessing in this relentless heat. But what’s this? Used to be a row of shophouses here, bustling with activity. The Malay Mail, wasn’t it? One of the first newspapers in all of Malaya. (Scratches his chin thoughtfully) Back then, news travelled slow, but it travelled deep. People took the time to read, to ponder, to form an opinion. (Shakes his head) Not like these days, where everyone’s glued to their little glowing rectangles, attention spans are shorter than a mosquito’s lifespan!
(Looks back at the Malay Mail site and shakes his head). Newspapers these days are a shadow of their former selves. Reduced to clickbait headlines and fleeting online articles. (Sighs) But perhaps there’s still hope. Perhaps people will rediscover the joy of getting lost in a good long read, the satisfaction of forming an informed opinion. (Stares optimistically into the distance) One can dream, can’t one?
Well folks, let’s keep moving! Follow me past this shady canopy and prepare to be wowed. Well, well, well, look what we have here! The majestic Jamek Mosque, right at the meeting point of two rivers – Klang and Gombak, wouldn’t you know it? Built in 1909, this beauty has stood witness to Kuala Lumpur’s history for over a century. (Bujang Masa Lalu shades his eyes and admires the mosque)
Now, let’s just scootch around the corner and see what we have here… Ah, the Oriental Building! A real Art Deco gem from the 1930s. Built by this chap A.O. Coltman, see how the building follows the bend of the road? Quite graceful, I must say.
Alright folks, that’s all for this stop. But remember, history is everywhere you look in Kuala Lumpur!
Plot Twist: Leboh Ampang
(Sniffs the air) Hmm, what’s that delightful aroma? Spices? (Smiles) Ah, masala chai, perhaps? Just the thing to hit the spot on a hot day like this. (Looks around) There must be a little kedai somewhere around here…
(Notices the beautifully preserved shophouses lining the street)
These shophouses, wouldn’t you agree? Silent witnesses to Kuala Lumpur’s transformation. Once someone’s home, a refuge far from their homeland, yet a place they poured their hearts and souls into. (Nods thoughtfully) A reminder that progress doesn’t happen in a vacuum. It’s built on the contributions of countless individuals, some seen, some unseen.
(Arrives at the restaurant and takes a seat, savouring the spicy aroma of the chai) Ah, this hits the spot! (Sips his tea) Speaking of unseen, let’s not forget the Chettiar community. These unassuming merchants from India, the “hidden hand” behind Malaya’s economic boom. (Gestures with his hand) Quietly providing loans, facilitating trade, helping grease the wheels of progress.
One sip of chai, one walk down a forgotten street, and a whole new chapter unfolds. (Finishes his tea and pats his belly contentedly) Now, back to my walk! But perhaps with a newfound appreciation for the unseen forces that shaped this city I love.
Part 9
(Turns to the Gian Singh Building, a warm smile on his face)
Now, these shophouses, they tell a story. They speak of a time when craftsmanship mattered, when beauty wasn’t an afterthought. See these bay windows, like little balconies yearning for a conversation? And that oculus window above the entrance, a curious eye observing the world go by. (Points to the Islamic crescent moon) And a touch of the East, a reminder of the diverse communities that have called Kuala Lumpur home.
(Shakes his head and gestures towards the modern buildings across the street) Can’t say the same for these newfangled glass and steel monstrosities over there. All glitz and glamour, but about as deep as a puddle after a summer shower. Reflecting nothing but their own smug geometric shapes. (Scoffs) Where’s the soul? The character? (Shakes his head in disappointment and continues walking, his cane tapping a steady rhythm on the sidewalk).
Part 10
Benteng, they used to call this area in the 70s and 80s. A popular spot for a bite to eat, I hear. Wouldn’t mind a nice plate of satay myself… (Rubs his tummy) But perhaps that’s best for another day. For now, I’ll just enjoy this stroll down memory lane, who knows what other stories these old streets have waiting to be discovered? This city is a living museum, and I am it’s curious explorer.
Part 11
To be continued…
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Image source: Eric Lim