Unwrapped: The Story of Bak Chang
Unwrapped: The Story of Bak Chang
by Manjeet Dhillon
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sarongtrails
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More Than Just a Dumpling
Imagine a pyramid-shaped parcel, roughly the size of your fist. A wrapping not of paper but of a deep green, wide leaf with a slightly glossy sheen. A hint of roughness meets your fingertips as you brush against the leaf. These are bamboo leaves. Unwrap it, you ask? I carefully peel back the leaf for a reveal, and there’s a dense, tightly packed filling of glutinous rice. The rice itself has a light brownish colour, flecked with ingredients—but what are they? It’s the bak chang, a glutinous rice delicacy, that serves as a tangible link to the Dragon Boat Festival, celebrated in the fifth lunar month of the Chinese calendar.
Legend tells the tale of Qu Yuan, a patriotic poet from the state of Chu. Exiled for his wisdom going unheeded, he drowned himself in the Mi-Luo River in despair. Upon learning of his fate, the villagers, in a gesture of respect, cast rice dumplings into the water to ward off fish from his body. This selfless act is believed to have laid the foundation for the Dragon Boat Festival and the tradition of making bak chang.
From savoury to sweet, there are five distinct flavour profiles, each reflecting the culinary traditions of different communities:
| Hokkien | : | The classic iteration, featuring coloured brown rice seasoned with dark soy sauce and five-spice powder and a savoury filling of chestnut, pork belly, dried mushrooms and dried shrimps (hae-bee). |
| Cantonese | : | A more sumptuous experience, with the addition of Chinese sausage (lup cheong), salted egg yolk, and beans or peanuts to the traditional mix. Sometimes, the Cantonese bak chang takes on an elongated shape. |
| Teo Chew | : | A blend of sweet and savoury, where red bean paste complements the classic fillings. For an extra treat, the red bean paste is often rolled in caul fat. |
| Peranakan | : | The Peranakans, known for their culinary ingenuity, have created their own version. This Nyonya-style bak chang features minced pork and candied winter melon strips, with a distinctive blue hue imparted by pea flowers. Coriander powder adds an aromatic note to the filling. |
| Kee Chang | : | A delicate, vegetarian option with no meat filling. Its yellow hue and distinct flavour come from lye (kee) water. Often enjoyed dipped in sugar or drizzled with gula melaka (palm sugar). Quite a contrast to the savoury versions. |
Credit: Ministry of Culture, Community and Youth (MCCY), Singapore
The bak chang transcends being mere sustenance. Each precisely folded corner symbolises a philosophy: “zhi zu” (contentment), “gan en” (gratitude), “shan jie” (seeing good in others), and “bao rong” (tolerance).
Now, the story doesn’t quite complete there. For Peranakan Chinese, the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, the same day Bak Chang is traditionally eaten, holds another significance. It is known as Sembahyang Bulan Lima, a day of prayer and offerings.
On this day, Peranakan households hang Calamus (Daon Jerimu), Wormwood leaves (Daon Niah), and willow leaves on the right-hand corner of their doors. These plants are believed to possess medicinal properties and the ability to ward off evil spirits and insects, bringing health and well-being to the family throughout the year.
As you bite into a bak chang, remember the story it encapsulates, a story of resilience, remembrance, and the enduring spirit of cultural heritage.
Above image artist is Lee Bee Teng, sourced from Usaha Tegas Heritage
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