And now, as we draw closer to Dickson Road and Gombak Lane, you can bet your curiosity will be rewarded. This isn’t just any ordinary stretch—it’s history, commerce, and a few good stories.

Dickson Street – Jalan Tun Tijah – Jalan Masjid India 

Imagine stepping back to 1889, when Dickson Street was anchored by the humble Masjid Kampung Melaka, a wooden mosque built by Encik Baki. Over time, the mosque became central to the lives of worshippers, evolving into the Masjid India we know today, though it was first known as Masjid Keling and Masjid Chulia before receiving its current name. As the decades progressed, the area’s spirit was enriched by South Asian influences, with Minangkabau migrants from Indonesia setting up restaurants, bookstores, and cultural establishments, helping to foster a vibrant cultural exchange. Today’s shopfronts—like Madras Textiles, Ajuntha Textiles, and Haniffa Textiles, are echoes of this heritage. Yet, less visibly, Malay, Sumatran, and Chinese businesses added to the area’s hybrid charm, flourishing within tucked-away corners and offshoot alleys.

The Straits Times, 11 February 1962.

By the 1960s, the landscape retained its earthy, eclectic character.Although a road reserve had been notionally charted on the municipal plans, Dickson Street was for many decades an un-metalled earth track, running parallel to the main thoroughfare, Batu Road. Wooden shacks and street stalls still defined the bazaar atmosphere, with undeveloped marshlands to the north of Malay Street housing early settlers. Small traders and artisans filled these wooden structures, including tailors, songkok-makers, and chapal artisans who lent their crafts to the buzzing ‘Malay Street Bazaar.’ Around this time, two landmark high-rises, the Selangor and Malaya Mansions, (built slightly earlier by United Malaya Realty Ltd, circa 1963) punctuated the skyline.

The renaming of Dickson Street to Jalan Masjid India in 1965 was a turning point, honouring the newly reconstructed mosque and marking a significant cultural shift. By the 1970s, high-rise buildings began to rise, and the construction of Wisma Yakin in 1976 brought both modernity and displacement. Traditional traders found themselves pushed from their street stalls, though a few—particularly those selling textiles and tailoring services—were granted spaces on Wisma Yakin’s lower floors, where they continued to attract loyal customers.

Kuala Lumpur Street Names: A Guide to Their Meanings and Histories by Mariana Isa and Maganjeet Kaur.

This new high-rise quickly became a hub for traditional Malay trades, with vendors like Haji Suru, a songkok seller, and Minang eateries such as Restoran Waspada keeping local traditions alive. Just outside, a gathering space emerged where sellers of traditional Malay medicine offered massages and herbal remedies, maintaining the area’s vibrant local trade. The Minangkabau folks from Indonesia added their own flavor to the mix, opening up restaurants and bookstores. Pustaka Indonesia, once a cultural hub, has morphed into Pustaka Rezeki Harapan, while Pustaka Fajar Ilmu Baru on the second floor still caters to the serious bookworm.

Bookstores were a dime a dozen back then, especially in Selangor Mansion. Pustaka Melayu Baru churned out novels faster than a printing press, while another bookstore at the end of the building catered to a different crowd, peddling Evangelical Christian literature. And let’s not forget Pustaka Adinda, a haven for the intellectually inclined, stocking up on imported books from Indonesia.

If memory serves me right, there was Mubarak Store and John’s Restaurant, serving the best chicken chop and fried rice in the world! And who could forget the row of rainforest trees along the riverbank? A quaint scene, with Malay barbers hanging their tools like trophies on the trunks. Ah, those were the days!

A starkly different story existed at the far end of Jalan Masjid India. Where the bustling Semua House complex now stands was once the squatter colony of “Blakang Mati,” notorious for its illicit nightlife and dubious enterprises. With the area cleared in the 1960s, many of these activities migrated to Selangor and Malayan Mansions, and despite its lively daytime commerce, the area gained a reputation for its nocturnal allure.

Legend has it that the majestic Semua House was once known as Bellevue, home to San Ah Wing. Memory doesn’t quite serve me, but we’ll circle back to this little piece later.

And let’s not forget the legendary Alisan food court, a haven for foodies in the 80s. Their popiah was simply divine – a must-try for anyone in the area. And right around the corner at Jalan Bunus 6, was a kopitiam with some of the best Chinese cuisine to satisfy those late-night cravings.

Gombak Lane

Ah, Gombak Lane. A place steeped in history, a forgotten chapter in Kuala Lumpur’s story. Back in 1906, it was home to a steam-powered electric power station. Today, all that remains is the towering Menara DBKL 1, a stark reminder of the past.

Gombak Lane itself was a bustling hub of activity, housing the Lakshmi Narayan Temple and the Sikh Temple. A fire in 1956 ravaged the area, leaving behind a trail of destruction (residents were later relocated to new permanent low cost home in Ulu Klang). The Lakshmi Narayan Mandir, however, stood strong, a testament to its enduring spirit. It was a simple place, with open-air langgars by the river and a nearby Hindi school. The Mandir was relocated to a newly building premises in Kg Kasipillay in Sentul in 1982.

The Sikh community also left its mark on Gombak Lane. The Gurdwara Sahib Panch Khalsa Diwan was a place of worship and community, where Sikhs gathered to pray and socialize. It was a unique place, where both men and women wore black turbans. Sadly, like many of the other buildings in the area, it was eventually demolished to make way for development and the Gurdwara was closed in early 1972 due to dwindling membership.